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Post by alexanderreay on Sept 11, 2016 19:21:15 GMT
A surprising number of brand new and expensive guitars actually do need re-fretted to correct them. Largely the fingerboard not being straightened after the neck is put on, or put on with the frets already in. Fretting, neck joints, truss rod, tension, construction techniques, that whole area is a minefield of problems.
There is honestly no guarantee re-fretting would correct your problem, though. If the frets are levelled properly, crowned and not loose why would it?
I am sure you shall update this once the maker has addressed it. I would be interested. I too have been driven to the very brink of a murderous rampage chasing horrid noises all day.
Then you fix it and can't decide whether it is still there, has it changed? Have I actually damaged my mind?!
Raising the action really high would be another test.
Changing the string or affected strings, as well.
The fake fret is an interesting idea but it loses a lot of constants, changed the sound for the better so still valuable, but you can't definitely say it is fret related as the vibration is likely to be deadened somewhat which will mute the parasite.
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Post by alexanderreay on Sept 10, 2016 18:04:29 GMT
And tap the saddle down when you string it up again, bit of wood and the side of some pliers... Or something. Not hard, just firm.
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Post by alexanderreay on Sept 10, 2016 18:02:58 GMT
Finding ghost resonances can be a complete nightmare, I like the name you use for it.
What appears to be fret related issue may have nothing at all to do with the playability. Anything loose, nut or saddle angles can cause problems. Loose bracing or screws, frets. Anything. And it all sounds like it is coming from the soundhole. Don't be fooled, this is the entire point of a guitar. Bastard things that they are.
One thing I like to do when diagnosing is to play the same note elsewhere on the fingerboard, as the vibration is the same frequency sometimes it will replicate the 'buzz' and rule out a particular fret or string.
Firstly find how you can reliably replicate the problem repeatedly. Keep strumming, causing the buzz and push on all points of the guitar and strings, behind the saddle or above the nut, etc, trying to affect it. Back, sides, soundboard, neck, everywhere. Try to keep everyrhing else constant, playing position, attack etc. Check the saddle and nut are seated properly, may be worth checking the bottom of the saddle is flat and the slot is clean. Take the corners off the saddle with sandpaper if it is tight in the slot. Do it anyway probably.
Loosen the strings feel around inside while pushing on the top of the soundboard checking individual bracing for cracks or looseness.
If it has a pickup, you need to make sure it is all tight.
Good luck!
Tighten screws. Superglue frets in if they are right and you are confident cleaning it up.
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 20, 2016 6:53:35 GMT
Thank you for your reply. Wow, lovely Walnut - the chatoyance is amazing. You chose a lovely set. Do you have plans to make any more instruments? No problem, thanks for the compliments! Apologies for the late reply, it has been another busy week. I am planning to build an Alexander next, I shall take more progress pictures with that one as to be more suitable to the 'build' thread. I have various jobs I want to do on my other instruments first, but I intend to start it September/October. Most likely it shall be a much plainer instrument, however. My Ariel is a bit fancy for pub gigs and the thought of some clown spilling beer on her frightens me. The Alexander is to be more of a 'work horse' as people like to call it. I had been debating mahogany back and sides for warmth as we have made a few with this as a customisation, although having tried both Sapele and Mahogany side by side, I actually think I prefer the extra bite of the Sapele, I also think it suits my playing better. So, Sapele back and sides, Cedar top (probably colourful in some respects), ebony board 'n bridge, although rosewood is a possibilty. This isn't to say I shan't sneak a custom inlay in the fingerboard while Roger isn't looking :-) I don't think it will happen as it is a bit tacky, but, I had this fantasy of a Pacman themed guitar. Stained black back, sides, top, neck, blue lines featuring in the bindings and surrounding the fingerboard. Dots in the fingerboard but a mother of pearl pacman ghost at the 5th and perhaps some cherries at the 12th. If I really wanted to go all out, a Pacman tattood on the back of my left hand, to eat the dots and ghost as it moved up the neck! In fairness that would be taking things to the extreme, I enjoyed imagining it, though. Alex
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 12, 2016 21:32:21 GMT
Nice 'Zouk! Is that Black Limba or Oregon Myrtle you have as back and sides? Thank you very much! Nothing as exotic, I am afraid. It's English walnut back and sides, western cedar top. The whole thing is remarkably light as a result. I dug right though the walnut looking for something that was quite interesting and had enough flaws/was small enough to convince Roger to part with it! I like the dark lines that occur in English walnut sometimes so I looked hard for them in particular. Alex
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 12, 2016 21:26:06 GMT
I think GDAD has become the unofficial standard tuning for bouzoukis, at least in British and American music. Opinion seems to be more divided over octave mandolins - I think GDAE is more common, though a lot of people use GDAD. I think it probably comes down to the playing styles: GDAD is more friendly for chord-playing, and bouzoukis probably get used this way more than OMs do. As far as I know, the only difference between an octave mandolin and a (celtic-style) bouzouki is the scale length - anything over about 23" tends to be called a bouzouki. Interesting stuff, thankyou. It's standard guitar, 24.75" scale. GDAD has certainly come up a lot and seems to be peoples preference on here. My concern with GDAD, although it may make some of the chords less of a stretch it would in effect render a whole tone sharp on that string unreachable. With only 4 notes to play with, essentially, that seems quite a big sacrifice, to me. I am not against it, I just want to learn GDAE first, I think. I shall re-post in here when I try GDAD properly down the line and conclude I was mistaken, we all like to make our own mistakes though, don't we? Alex
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Aug 8, 2016 21:10:00 GMT
Post by alexanderreay on Aug 8, 2016 21:10:00 GMT
Lovely looking instruments Alex, and I'm sure they sound great too! I'd second Leo's suggestion of GDAD for the zouk, esp for accompaniment - I can't get the hang of it for tunes as I keep my mandolin in GDAE. Keith Thankyou, I am pretty lucky to have them, they sound wonderful. I will no doubt explore GDAD, I just felt I should try and learn it in 'standard tuning', first. Although, is there even a standard tuning for bouzouki? Greek tuning would be most likely CFAD or ADAD, according to wikipedia; Irish GDAD or GDGD. Somewhere down the line I want to build a cittern, tuned GDGDG, so I would probably leave GDGD for now. Where did GDAE come from, then? Isn't that how a violin is tuned? Essentially, tuned GDAE, is this thing technically an Octave mandolin? Probably because we ship them all GDAE as standard, I feel this must be my starting point. Also, I came across this site gdaebouzouki.blogspot.co.uk/ and printed out the chord diagrams there, using the last of my printer ink. If I change the tuning now I will definitely have to buy new printer ink cartridges! Alex
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Aug 6, 2016 17:15:39 GMT
Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 17:15:39 GMT
The Ariel pictures have just appeared as I sent my post I am rather envious Ged Sorry! The only recording I have of it online already is with my Folk duo thing on soundcloud - soundcloud.com/unconsciouslivingAlthough, I am on the verge of finishing and releasing our second track which also has it on. I wanted to learn bouzouki, mainly for songwriting variety, really. Plus, I am in a fortunate position to be able to make them, and the one a year for my pension wasn't a joke!
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 17:06:23 GMT
They look beautiful instruments, alexanderreay . Have you tried the zouk in GDAD? That works for me. Thankyou. I briefly tried GDAD, and It did feel more familiar in some ways. I wanted to have a decent go at GDAE before I started altering tunings, though. I am getting to grips with it better now. There was that whole, 'well, it looks great, but I can't play the bloody thing' about a fortnight ago!
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 16:31:27 GMT
last... I have actually replaced that truss rod cover with a macassar ebony one, now. Maple was too light there.
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2-4-1
Aug 6, 2016 16:30:13 GMT
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 16:30:13 GMT
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 16:29:30 GMT
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Aug 6, 2016 16:28:37 GMT
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 16:28:37 GMT
last one Attachments:
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Aug 6, 2016 16:28:01 GMT
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Aug 6, 2016 16:26:44 GMT
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Post by alexanderreay on Aug 6, 2016 16:26:44 GMT
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