davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 17, 2014 20:58:20 GMT
You're killing me with this one Dave. Can I request Goodnight Irene as a demo once it's done? I'll try my best. The Oak X brace cap is glued on using hot hide glue:  The back braces are then carved and the back is “voiced” – here’s the result:  The linings are notched to accept the brace ends and the back is glued to the rim-set using fish glue:  |
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Mar 18, 2014 8:56:05 GMT
That's going to look lovely when it's polished up, Dave ... Can'#t wait to get some sound samples in a few months' time...
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Post by scripsit on Mar 18, 2014 12:49:33 GMT
'Proper' ladder bracing for the top, Dave, or some X additions as well?
Kym
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 18, 2014 13:10:05 GMT
Thanks Leo. 'Proper' ladder bracing for the top, Dave, or some X additions as well? Kym Kym - not quite X's, I'm treating this 12'er as a bigger Octave Mandolin with more strings  The Lutz top plates are initially thicknessed, jointed and glued using hot hide glue and the tent method:  The rosette ring is routed out using the circle cutting jig:  The Oak rosette flanked by black / pear/ black purflings are carefully fitted and glued in using pva glue:  The Oak soundhole re-enforcement is glued on in the go-bar deck using hot hide glue:  The soundhole is then routed out using the circle cutter jig:  The Lutz spruce braces long braces are then glued on one at a time using hot hide glue:   Next the Lutz spruce bridge-plate is glued on using hot hide glue and a caul in the go-bar deck:  The upper transverse brace is glued on after notching to span the A frame braces and having a hole drilled for the truss rod adjuster:  The ladder brace behind the soundhole is then glued on after notching to span the long braces:  Then the bridge ladder bracess are glued on in a similar way:   |
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Post by earwighoney on Mar 18, 2014 18:08:05 GMT
Very nice Dave.
It's progressing along nicely it seems!
Something I meant to ask before, is about the tail block - does a 12 string require a different one to a 6 string? Some 12's I've played seem to have a balance issue and seem far too neck heavy, I was wondering if a heavier tail block could remedy such a issue...
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Phil Taylor
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Post by Phil Taylor on Mar 18, 2014 22:38:59 GMT
Thanks Leo. 'Proper' ladder bracing for the top, Dave, or some X additions as well? Kym Kym - not quite X's, I'm treating this 12'er as a bigger Octave Mandolin with more strings The Lutz top plates are initially thicknessed, jointed and glued using hot hide glue and the tent method: The rosette ring is routed out using the circle cutting jig: The Oak rosette flanked by black / pear/ black purflings are carefully fitted and glued in using pva glue: The Oak soundhole re-enforcement is glued on in the go-bar deck using hot hide glue: The soundhole is then routed out using the circle cutter jig: The Lutz spruce braces long braces are then glued on one at a time using hot hide glue: Next the Lutz spruce bridge-plate is glued on using hot hide glue and a caul in the go-bar deck: The upper transverse brace is glued on after notching to span the A frame braces and having a hole drilled for the truss rod adjuster: The ladder brace behind the soundhole is then glued on after notching to span the long braces: Then the bridge ladder bracess are glued on in a similar way: How do you get rid of the 'excess' glue so effectively Dave? Phil |
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 19, 2014 8:19:33 GMT
V Something I meant to ask before, is about the tail block - does a 12 string require a different one to a 6 string? Some 12's I've played seem to have a balance issue and seem far too neck heavy, I was wondering if a heavier tail block could remedy such a issue... Shubbs - The tailblock is a little bigger than normal to take the cf tubes but it's made of lime and is not heavy. I;m hoping that the light slothead tuners I'm using will keep things in balance. How do you get rid of the 'excess' glue so effectively Dave? Phil Phil - hot hide glue is a collagen (similar to gelatine) and the squeeze out dries to a jelly after about ten minutes that peels off nicely. |
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Post by scripsit on Mar 19, 2014 8:53:24 GMT
It's looking good, Dave.
Do you shave, scallop or otherwise shape the horizontal braces? The images I've seen of the old-time ladder bracing on the twenties and thirties mail order guitars is often very crude and industrial looking: big chunks of rectangular timber. I've often wondered if this is just part of the process of pumping out boxes quickly and cheaply or if there is some aural or structural logic behind it.
Kym
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 19, 2014 9:31:28 GMT
It's looking good, Dave. Do you shave, scallop or otherwise shape the horizontal braces? The images I've seen of the old-time ladder bracing on the twenties and thirties mail order guitars is often very crude and industrial looking: big chunks of rectangular timber. I've often wondered if this is just part of the process of pumping out boxes quickly and cheaply or if there is some aural or structural logic behind it. Kym Kym - certainly tapering from the centre to the outside edges of the top and based on the voicing I did of the Octave Mandolin a little scalloping in the middle of the two bridge plate ladders but mindful of the need to support the 12 string load. The old time guys spent forever on the internet forums debating the merits of double tops, Youngs Modulus, monoples, dipoles, fol-di-rol-di-eyepoles and top torrefaction before they picked up their chisels I'm sure I suspect that industrial bracing gives you a better edge in a bar room fight though.  |
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Post by scripsit on Mar 19, 2014 12:09:45 GMT
I suspect that industrial bracing gives you a better edge in a bar room fight though. Ha, that's how tricones were invented. Kym |
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007
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My main instrument is: 1965 Hagstrom H45E
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Post by 007 on Mar 19, 2014 13:49:34 GMT
fabulous to watch the build Dave looking forward to hearing it
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 19, 2014 14:08:08 GMT
Thanks Paul.
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Mar 19, 2014 16:40:56 GMT
This build is certainly moving on a-pace  Perhaps we should open a book on when it will be finished... I'll go for next Tuesday  |
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 20, 2014 18:41:53 GMT
The Oak back strip is glued in using hot hide glue:  An oak block is notched into the kerfed linings on the upper bout to take a strap pin. A pilot hole is drilled and the strap pin test fitted:  The braces are carved and the top “voiced”. Then the top is signed and dated:  Here’s the voiced top – the two bridge plate ladder braces have been scalloped slightly:   The linings are notched to accept the brace ends and the top is glued to the rim-set using fish glue:  |
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Post by scripsit on Mar 20, 2014 22:47:16 GMT
OK, Dave, that definitely doesn't look industrial, even though there is lots of clever engineering going on.
You certainly seem to be well prepared for any tendency towards 'rotation' towards the sound hole, although I would imagine that apart from the stresses caused by pushing down on the floating bridge the other main concern with a tailpiece mount is the compression between neck and tail blocks. Is that what the long carbon fiber tubes are about?
Looking forward to hearing this.
Kym
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Jo whoever he is.
