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Post by earwighoney on Jun 9, 2015 12:15:07 GMT
Back to guitar related issues....
Colin would it be possible to ask what the measurements of the guitars are in terms of body depth, upper and lower bout, the scale of the guitar as well. Is it me or is the upper bout slightly larger than the conventional Martin 00 12 fret upper bout (which is just under 10" right?). I myself love the sound of the traditional 00-12, but find the smaller upper bout a little tricky to deal with when it comes to ergonomics.
Impacts of sound from the lower bout are well documented, but I am less sure to the impacts of sound from the upper bout. I'm coming to appreciate ergonomics are what I look for most of all now, and the combination of a 11" or so upper bout to a 14" lower bout (be it 14 fret 00 or most 'Spanish' guitars) is the body form I enjoy playing the most.
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colins
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Post by colins on Jun 9, 2015 13:36:32 GMT
The plantilla I use for these is the same as the one I use on my classical guitars, that of the 1864 Torres FE19 'La Suprema' guitar, with soundboard aggregate of 1273cm2. It's a comfortable shape to play and I'm not going to argue with Mr Torres when it comes to body design!
The lower bout is 360mm, upper bout 275mm and waist 230mm. Depth at the head is 95mm and at the tail 105mm. Using the 645mm scale and a body join at the 13th fret puts the bridge into the same position as on my classicals with their 650mm scale. Nut is 46mm and saddle 56mm.
Colin |
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Post by earwighoney on Jun 9, 2015 14:28:24 GMT
The plantilla I use for these is the same as the one I use on my classical guitars, that of the 1864 Torres FE19 'La Suprema' guitar, with soundboard aggregate of 1273cm2. It's a comfortable shape to play and I'm not going to argue with Mr Torres when it comes to body design!
The lower bout is 360mm, upper bout 275mm and waist 230mm. Depth at the head is 95mm and at the tail 105mm. Using the 645mm scale and a body join at the 13th fret puts the bridge into the same position as on my classicals with their 650mm scale. Nut is 46mm and saddle 56mm.
Colin Thanks for the info Colin, Good to see a steel string guitar with a larger upper bout; I find it a very comfortable body shape to play. |
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Post by colins on Jun 23, 2015 11:05:56 GMT
Sorry for the hiatus in the building, I have had a number of distractions, including having to make a Mondrian themed tombola drum, don't ask!
Anyway, I finally had time to get the two guitars fretted, I'll spare you my usual diatribe on correct fretting technique.
Started with the Claro guitar, this is using normal medium wire, pressed as normal with just a little fish glue on the tang, more as a lubricant than anything else, but it does also serve to fill the void under the tang. After three frets are installed I can then start to check the frets with a fret-rocker. Any high fret is re-pressed until level. I repeat the process for each fret as its installed.
20 frets installed, and checked, I cut the ends flush as I go, you only have to have your arm torn on a jagged fret end once.
Repeat the process, for the All English guitar, I'm using medium Evo frets on this, I normally only use it on electrics, but, the colour match with the tuners was too good to resist.
Next it's on to finishing, so lots of sanding and fried egg yolk sandwiches.
Colin
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Post by earwighoney on Jun 23, 2015 11:24:42 GMT
Would it be possible to ask why you usually use Evo mainly for electrics? I've heard good things about the wear of Evo frets in contrast to their NS counterparts for acoustic guitars. Also, what are the tuners that are used for the slothead guitar? I like the visual look of 3 in a line tuners over the look of individual slot head tuners. Sorry for another question, but do you have preferred ratio for mechanical tuners (be it acoustic or nylon)?
Out of intrigue as well, what is the bog oak fretboard like for putting in frets, I've read African Ebony can be quite brittle. From the pictures the Bog Oak looks really beautiful, what kind of feel does Bog Oak have to the fingers? I had a guitar with an African Ebony f'board which was really dry in comparison to one with a Cocobolo f'board which felt more on the oily side of things.
Enjoy the fried egg yolk sandwiches....
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Post by colins on Jun 23, 2015 11:48:19 GMT
Electric players tend to do more bending than the average acoustic player, I used NS frets for 40 years and only ever had to change a couple of frets. I'm not overly enthusiastic about the Evo colour it generally doesn't look right with the other hardwear I use. I usually only use a gold coloured tuner on classicals, and for the people I build classicals for, believe me Evo wire would not go down well!
Tuners are like digital cameras, there has been a rush to higher numbers, 12:1, 14:1, 18:1, they all do the job including 1:1 pegs. These tuners are Rubner, made to order, and are I believe 15:1 ratio. OK with a lute, then you do need to spend a fair amount of time tuning it, but I do find that a lot of guitar players spend far too much time fiddling with their tuners.
The Bog oak board is fine to work with, but I have never found a wood that was difficult to fret including the ebonies. It is important to run a triangular file over the fret slots to chamfer the edges, this makes installation easier and more importantly stops any tendency to splintering if the fret has to be pulled.
Colin
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Post by earwighoney on Jun 23, 2015 18:46:31 GMT
Electric players tend to do more bending than the average acoustic player, I used NS frets for 40 years and only ever had to change a couple of frets. I'm not overly enthusiastic about the Evo colour it generally doesn't look right with the other hardwear I use. I usually only use a gold coloured tuner on classicals, and for the people I build classicals for, believe me Evo wire would not go down well! Tuners are like digital cameras, there has been a rush to higher numbers, 12:1, 14:1, 18:1, they all do the job including 1:1 pegs. These tuners are Rubner, made to order, and are I believe 15:1 ratio. OK with a lute, then you do need to spend a fair amount of time tuning it, but I do find that a lot of guitar players spend far too much time fiddling with their tuners. The Bog oak board is fine to work with, but I have never found a wood that was difficult to fret including the ebonies. It is important to run a triangular file over the fret slots to chamfer the edges, this makes installation easier and more importantly stops any tendency to splintering if the fret has to be pulled. Colin Thanks for the reply Colin. 40 years of playing with only a few frets changed would indicate playing with a very light touch! There seems to be trend for higher ratios for steel string players at least; I've seen some 'modern' acoustic guitars with 21:1 ratio tuners which seems a bit on the excessive side of things, I think the tuners on my flamenco guitar are 18:1 which even with a string winder seem to require a huge amount of turning to get to the adequate amount of tension, which made me think the users of 1:1 pegs are in the know how. I'm not sure I understand the issue of triangular file over fret slots but it is interesting nonetheless. |
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Post by colins on Jul 23, 2015 11:42:31 GMT
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Post by ocarolan on Jul 23, 2015 12:24:45 GMT
 Keith
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Post by mandovark on Jul 23, 2015 12:30:15 GMT
I'll see Keith's and raise you a  |
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Post by earwighoney on Jul 23, 2015 14:22:57 GMT
Hello Colin,
The Liberon Oil finish looks very nice indeed. How many coats are required for such a finish and how long does it take to apply? I have a flamenco guitar with a shellac/French Polish finish and one of the things which I really like about it is the smell of the guitar; does a guitar with a Liberon Oil finish have a different smell to nitro/poly?
Also, would it be possible to ask what oil you use for your fretboards (if you do oil them...)
Thanks.
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Post by Martin on Jul 23, 2015 15:04:57 GMT
Utterly amazing work, Colin. A pair or real beauties! I'll need to save plenty of money for prize draw tickets if I want to make that English stunner mine  |
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Post by davewhite on Jul 23, 2015 15:38:01 GMT
Colin, Gorgeous  I love the way the top from "The Tree" has come up under the oil finish, it looks as full of character as me  |
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Post by colins on Jul 23, 2015 21:58:29 GMT
Colin, Gorgeous I love the way the top from "The Tree" has come up under the oil finish, it looks as full of character as me Dave the pictures don't do 'The Tree' justice it looks great in the hand. Yes lots of interest, which changes under different light, I can't take any credit for its looks though, you grew it!
Colin
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Post by davewhite on Jul 24, 2015 7:00:52 GMT
Colin, Gorgeous I love the way the top from "The Tree" has come up under the oil finish, it looks as full of character as me Dave the pictures don't do 'The Tree' justice it looks great in the hand. Yes lots of interest, which changes under different light, I can't take any credit for its looks though, you grew it!
Colin
I'm looking forward to playing it at Halifax. "The Tree" was already mature when we moved in so I can only claim to have cut it down I'm afraid. |
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I love the way the top from "The Tree" has come up under the oil finish, it looks as full of character as me 
Jo whoever he is.
