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Post by monolith on Mar 23, 2023 8:27:29 GMT
Has anyone used one at all? Reading stories of it affecting the tone of the guitar. Got a Nigel Thornbory guitar that’s got a bit of bellying in the bridge, it’s making the action come up. There’s not much room on the saddle for any adjustments. Wondered if any folk have tried the Bridge Doctor?
Cheers
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dogwheel
Busker
Posts: 60
My main instrument is: Doodson by Phil-the-Luthier
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Post by dogwheel on Mar 23, 2023 16:57:56 GMT
I typed and lost this reply, here I go again! A good pal of mine used a Bridge Doctor to fix his Korean made Tanglewood TW1200 (twelve string), which had become quite "pot bellied". He now has a nice and very playable instrument, with lots of future bridge saddle adjustment available should it be needed, nuff sed?
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Post by borborygmus on Mar 23, 2023 17:07:28 GMT
I'd not heard of this before, so:
Peter
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Post by fred7 on Mar 23, 2023 17:21:08 GMT
I once had a very bad bellying acoustic and discovered the bridge doctor and was intrigued. then I saw the price which, whilst not excessive, was more than the guitar was worth (in its' then current state) so I made a crude variant from scrap wood and a bolt. Worked extremely well so I would say the real deal would well be worth considering.
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Post by monolith on Mar 23, 2023 17:34:46 GMT
Cheers for the responses, going to give it a try, gone for the more expensive version with the brass pegs, don’t need any drilling then. 👍
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Post by dreadnought28 on Mar 23, 2023 22:02:56 GMT
I’ve had them in two guitars I bought. Ripped them out and the sound improved massively on both occasions. I hate them.
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relax
Sore Fingers
Just joined and have played acoustic for many years but now and then. Now retired and playing more.
Posts: 1
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Post by relax on Mar 24, 2023 12:32:35 GMT
I have fitted 2 bridge doctors. One in the Tanglewood 12 stringed acoustic. I used the Brass bridge pin doctor. Having never fitted one before, I found the following problems. Firstly. The screw in nylon post. This goes into the end grain of the L shaped wooden part of the doctor. The screw threads tore out from the L shape from the pressure of the 12 twelve strings. Solution was to remove a section of the L shape and glue and pin a piece of Oak with the grain orientation to be cross grain when viewed from above. The pins were brass rods going through the oak and the basswood L shape.
The brass pins. These needed a slight adjustment to allow them to lower them in the bridge pin holes, only because I play with a low action at the 12th fret and a low saddle height. To get a good break angle.
Lastly. Only because it was a 12 stringed guitar. I made a new saddle with a castellated top profile so as to keep the octave strings the same distance as the nut spacing up the length of the bridge. The original saddle allowed the distance to spread from nut to saddle.
To me, the only problem is the screw going into end grain wood. The one I fitted to a 6 string had no problems. Hope it helps
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Mar 24, 2023 13:06:49 GMT
relax - welcome to the Forum - great first post - hope you'll have fun here! keith
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Post by andy3sheds on Mar 28, 2023 22:17:16 GMT
To bring a guitar back to a playable state is always an admirable idea. However the level of repair should be appropriate this is where the Bridge Doctor becomes a viable option. If the guitar is not particularly valuable this simple diy piece of kit is a no brainer. This is still the case with a more expensive guitar that ought to go to a luthier but if funds aren’t available a less invasive approach can delay the need for a neck reset .I’ve fitted 3 Bridge Doctors all have made improvements sonically and in terms of playability. They won’t make a silk purse out of a sows ear. In my experience some outcomes have been more successful than others none have been detrimental
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