Andy P
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My main instrument is: Taylor 312ce, Guild D25, Deering 5 string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Mar 28, 2015 19:24:30 GMT
No doubt this has been done to death here well before now, but not since I joined I don't think. Do you use the tried and tested "lock" method, as shown in this video at 7.20? This is how I've been putting strings on for several years now and it seems to keep them in tune pretty well. How many times do you like each string to go around the post? A couple of times seems to be sufficient but do you like to have a few more for extra security? I finally took the strings off my Lowden today. They've been on since I bought it six weeks ago: I guess they date back to last July, when the guitar left the factory. They still sounded good but I thought it was about time for a change. Each string had at least four turns (the 6th and 5th) round the post, and six turns on the 1st and 2nd. I was surprised to find that they weren't "locked". Anyhow the guitar sounds even better, if that were possible.
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mandovark
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Post by mandovark on Mar 28, 2015 20:33:06 GMT
I've never used a locking method. I just put the string through the tuning post, turn the post through about 90 degrees, then pull it tight as I tune the rest of the way. Seems to work ok, and I don't tend to have any problems with the tuning slipping.
I usually go for 2-3 wraps round the post.
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alig
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Post by alig on Mar 28, 2015 20:55:08 GMT
Have a look at the Taylor website.
One or two useful hints about restringing - esp a foolproof way of cutting the strings before putting them on.
I used to do the 'loop string back on itself to lock it' thing.
Can't be arsed anymore and it's made no difference.
Alasdair.
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Post by keithambridge on Mar 28, 2015 21:27:05 GMT
Woody Mann showed his way of quick re stringing on one of the workshops I ran. I'll try and video it when I re string next!
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Martin
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Post by Martin on Mar 28, 2015 23:08:51 GMT
Woody Mann showed his way of quick re stringing on one of the workshops I ran. I'll try and video it when I re string next! That'd be great Keith, thanks! I hate restringing, and invariably I need a third hand to hold the strings at each end while turning the tuner. That's not counting another pair of arms to hold the bloomin thing on my lap when it decides to slide off halfway through I just leave the old ones on most of the time and claim everything I play is 'old timey' or blues
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Mar 28, 2015 23:21:48 GMT
Used to do the loop around and "lock" thing for many years, but like Alasdair I gave it up a while back. Too fiddly and injurious when removing strings for me! No loss of tuning stability since abandoning it.
On a guitar with a paddle headstock I tend to put one turn above the string hole and two below - insert string through hole, pull taut then pull back slightly more than the space between the posts and turn away. Plenty to keep things stable - posts are "waisted", with the string hole at about the narrowest point. Hence the turn above the hole and the turns below slide to the narrowest point and actually grip the string as it goes through the hole, and with the wound strings maybe helps reduce slippage. Unwound strings won't exhibit this to such a, or even any degree obviously, though the turn above and two below still seems to work well. often end up with more than two below on the unwound, though I prefer not to.
I tune roughly to pitch and then gently pull the string up and away from the neck/body in several places along the string. Then retune and repeat until string stays in tune when pulled up. A minute or two of thrashy strummage as a final check, retune if necessary (usually isn't) and then I'm good to go.
Because I use round core strings it is not sensible to cut them to length before tuning up, though I didn't do that anyway when I used to use hex-core strings - for me it didn't save me any time or obtain a neater job.
Keith
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Post by scripsit on Mar 28, 2015 23:51:57 GMT
I use standard D'Addarios, so can cut strings to length as part of the process, after slightly bending just above the ball end, inserting this end at the bridge, pulling up to ensure the ball end is not under the bridge pin. Now poke the string end through the hole in the machine head capstan and cut two finger widths beyond.
Bend the string end at right angles a centimeter or so back from the end, pull this kink through to the edge of the hole and start winding.
On paddleheads I force the first wind to be above the hole through the capstan and then pull the next wind down below. On slot heads the first wind goes to the interior of the slot and the next to the outside. I use one of those string winders (Planet Waves) that allows you to turn the machine head quickly while keeping tension on the string with the other hand.
With this technique unwound strings end up with about two to three turns around the capstan under the hole and bass strings fewer. The bass E usually has only one complete 'second' turn. Passing the string over itself at the hole seems to be sufficient to do the 'locking', and it's much easier to undo when restringing than with the 'tie a knot' method.
The Planet Waves string winder has a cutter on one end which makes it easy to deal with any nasty tangles when taking off the old strings, although with this method I don't usually have to make use of this.
I tune up immediately and noodle for five minutes and this should be enough for the strings to begin to settle down. Keith's 'lifting from the fret board' action will tame the occasional string which doesn't want to behave.
Kym
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Mar 29, 2015 6:33:52 GMT
What is this 'restringing' of which you all speak?
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Post by grayn on Mar 29, 2015 6:42:20 GMT
On the subject of times around the post, I use 2 to 3 on wound strings and 4 to 5 on plain strings.
I don't lock and don't get slippage.
I just wonder why locking tuners aren't used on acoustics. They make re-stringing a lot easier and are as stable as can be. Schallers would be my choice.
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brianr2
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Post by brianr2 on Mar 29, 2015 8:05:48 GMT
I hate restringing, and invariably I need a third hand to hold the strings at each end while turning the tuner. That's not counting another pair of arms to hold the bloomin thing on my lap when it decides to slide off halfway through I just leave the old ones on most of the time and claim everything I play is 'old timey' or blues I used to have the same problem until I started using one of THESE with a smaller battery-operated screwdriver. I can now change strings in about 10 minutes and don't mind doing it any more. Brian
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Post by snakestretcher on Mar 29, 2015 10:26:26 GMT
The way I've been doing it-for the past 40-odd years. It's fast, neat and results in stable tuning:
1. Do the bit at the bridge 2. Keep the string taut and bring it up to the tuner. 3. Take one or two (for the plain treble strings) turns around the tuner post BEFORE... 4. ...threading the free end through the post hole ABOVE the turns you just made. 5. Pull the free end tight to lock off the string, trim off the excess. 6. Tune to pitch, stretch, repeat. Job done.
Now, the reason for not inserting the string through the tuner post hole first is in order to reduce breakage. Consider this; the moment you start tuning to pitch the sharp edge of the tuner post hole puts an acute, metal-fatigue inducing kink into the string. My method puts the point of greatest stress on a tangent, thus eliminating the stress at the hole. Another bonus is that as you tune up the windings climb up the tuner post, further locking-off the string. Furthermore this method is fast and tuning remains stable. I could probably change all six strings in the time it took to type this. All the stuff involving bending and over and under knot-tying manoeuvers is just a waste of time.
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Wild Violet
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Post by Wild Violet on Mar 29, 2015 11:29:21 GMT
No locking, too many bloody fingers while taking the strings off with that method for me
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Andy P
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My main instrument is: Taylor 312ce, Guild D25, Deering 5 string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Mar 29, 2015 12:05:14 GMT
Thanks a lot for all your comments. I've drawn two main conclusions: 1. Locking as I described seems to be a waste of time and blood. 2. If I ever start another band I shall call it Thrashy Strummage
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 4,982
My main instrument is: Taylor 312ce, Guild D25, Deering 5 string banjo
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":"8e2be1"}
Mini-Profile Name Color: 060607
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Post by Andy P on Mar 29, 2015 15:46:05 GMT
By the way I have one of those machine-head winders which I've quite happily used on my Breedlove but it ain't going near the ebony buttons on my Lowden!
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Post by thejamsinger on Mar 29, 2015 18:45:58 GMT
I do the same as Snakestretcher. No particular reason it's just the wat I do it. Never had a problem with staying in tune, apart from when I play lol
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