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Post by bellyshere on Oct 28, 2018 18:27:54 GMT
I have been playing a fair old amount of years and i have never done the locking the string bit when i restring. I changed some strings today and thought i'd give it a go. Could i figure it out even after watching some videos? Could i feck! Please tell me i not the only one who just bungs the string on and winds it around? I don't have any tuning slipping problems so what's the point. It's really bloody irritated me and i was having a lovely day.
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Post by bleatoid on Oct 28, 2018 18:32:44 GMT
I just wind it round too bellyshere - I think the locking thing might be more relevant on a slothead? If I had been having a lovely day, the last thing I'd do would be to restring a guitar. It is the devil's work. Have a lovely evening!
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Post by Onechordtrick on Oct 28, 2018 19:25:54 GMT
I just pull the string tight, then a couple of turns round the peg, through the hole and tune it up. Can probably do a mandolin in 20 minutes.
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Post by oustudent on Oct 28, 2018 20:33:03 GMT
There is a method, difficult to describe but.......................
The first turn is over the top and all the rest below it.
I that what you mean?
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Post by ghnarumen on Oct 28, 2018 20:56:29 GMT
I had never done this until perhaps 10 years ago when I saw Mark Bailey, a local luthier, advocate it on a video by Martin Taylor. I think I saw it proposed on a video by Taylor guitars, too. Sometimes I use the method but usually not. I haven’t had a problem with strings slipping in years. I also pull the strings as I’m stringing up and don’t have problems with them losing tension in the first few hours; they’re ready to play just as soon as I finish restringing.
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Oct 28, 2018 22:56:49 GMT
John has it right there - makes little difference what "method" you use to get the string around the post (though I do like one wrap above and two below the posthole so the shape of the capstan snugs the winds together nicely) the crucial thing is to apply some extra tension after first tuning - pull the string gently away from the soundboard in two or three separate places along it's length. Retune as the pitch will have dropped. Repeat until it doesn't drop. Only takes a half a minute max per string and then give some good hard thrashy strummage and check tuning - retune if nec and repeat until tuning stable. Another couple of minutes or so. Then they'll stay in tune as well as guitars ever do. Or at least they won't be dropping in pitch for the next couple of days. I did give the wrapping the string around the "wrong" way and under the tightening string and pull back to "lock" thing a good try for several years but found it made no discernible difference to tuning stability and could be a right pain (literally) when removing the strings. However, each to his own - whatever works for you is right for you. Makes you wonder how we managed to retring our instruments in pre-Youtube days eh? Keith
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Post by bellyshere on Oct 29, 2018 11:28:47 GMT
John has it right there - makes little difference what "method" you use to get the string around the post (though I do like one wrap above and two below the posthole so the shape of the capstan snugs the winds together nicely) the crucial thing is to apply some extra tension after first tuning - pull the string gently away from the soundboard in two or three separate places along it's length. Retune as the pitch will have dropped. Repeat until it doesn't drop. Only takes a half a minute max per string and then give some good hard thrashy strummage and check tuning - retune if nec and repeat until tuning stable. Another couple of minutes or so. Then they'll stay in tune as well as guitars ever do. Or at least they won't be dropping in pitch for the next couple of days. I did give the wrapping the string around the "wrong" way and under the tightening string and pull back to "lock" thing a good try for several years but found it made no discernible difference to tuning stability and could be a right pain (literally) when removing the strings. However, each to his own - whatever works for you is right for you. Makes you wonder how we managed to retring our instruments in pre-Youtube days eh? Keith I think i just figured it out myself originally. I can’t remember asking anyone. That is probably why i string like i do. I’m sticking to that method as it works. I do wish youtube was around when i was first learning though. The hours spent trying to figure out tunes back in the day. So much easier now. Does that make you a better player figuring them out yourself though?
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Post by ocarolan on Oct 30, 2018 1:57:30 GMT
.............. I do wish youtube was around when i was first learning though. The hours spent trying to figure out tunes back in the day. So much easier now. Does that make you a better player figuring them out yourself though? Not necessarily, but it certainly gives you a far better understanding of what you're playing, and of what you're hearing when listening to others play, plus a rudimentary working knowledge of various aspects of theory (even though it doesn't seem like it!) It's certainly true that stuff you've worked out for yourself seems to stick better in the long term. Ears rule! Keith
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Post by andyhowell on Oct 30, 2018 7:51:36 GMT
I toned to agree with Keith. I spend a lot of time retuning and the third string is the one that breaks first. Properly winding the string around the post makes a big difference and strings definitely last longer. I don't do this on every string as others don't seem to have this problem, but I always heavily wind strings 3 and 4.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2018 18:26:24 GMT
I switched to locking tuners on all my guitars years ago and never looked back. Makes for super fast and reliable string changes on an acoustic too.
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Post by curmudgeon on Oct 31, 2018 1:16:40 GMT
Hi, most of my guitars are slotheads but on slab heads I measure to thebarell then add a couple of inches, then cut. Then I bend it over90 degree about 1/2 down. I hook that into the barrell then tightemn first one under , rest over. Worked for about thirty odd years.
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