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Post by philw on May 21, 2013 14:58:43 GMT
I took my guitar to the shop after my lesson last week to have some new strings put on them. When the lad did it he took ALL the strings off then put the new ones on one at a time. Does it matter he took them all off, should there be tension on the neck or does it not matter how its done? I guess what I would like to know, what is the 'right' way to change strings please? When I had some new strings put on at a different shop to the one above he left the sharp cut ends of string pointing forward and out a bit so when I put the guitar in my bag it ripped the inside of the bag so again is there a 'knack' to doing it so to avoid this issue? Lastly, I love a warm vibrant tone as opposed to a 'twangy' sound so has anyone got any recommendations to a decent string set? My new ones I tried are the D'Addario EXP strings size 12's, which sound quite nice, and have tried Martin Medium Strings before which were ok. thanks a lot team Phil
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Martin
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Post by Martin on May 21, 2013 15:29:23 GMT
Hi Phil, I hate changing strings, and do it only when I have to. As far as I know, you can change them one at a time or all at once - opinions vary, but I believe that since the strings are coming off and going back on again in a matter of minutes, it won't make much difference. I've certainly done it both ways without any major incident, and doing them all at once does give you the chance to clean the fingerboard a bit Regarding sharp ends, I just tend to cut them pretty close to the tuner posts and then try to bend the string end in and down a bit so that it avoids contact with my fingertips when reaching up to adjust the tuners... A warmer tone might be produced by using a phosphor bronze string rather than an 80/20 type string - these two types are clearly marked and indicated on string packaging and seller websites to allow you to select the correct type. There are other strings (such as JP silk and steel I believe) which are generally a lot mellower in tone.
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on May 21, 2013 16:48:51 GMT
What Martin said! Mostly I change strings one at a time - largely so I can tune each new to the rest that are still on. Once at pitch I'll lift the string away from the guitar in several places to help it settle in in, then retune. Repeat until no further drop in pitch. I used to to then cut to about 1cm beyond the tuning post and curl the end around with pliers. Gave up doing that because it makes removing the string fiddlier so I now just cut as close to the post as poss - usually leaves approx 1mm sticking out. You can, if you wiggle the spare bit of string round and round, fatigue the wire enough so that the string breaks right where it leaves the post, but it's a bit of a fag doing it. Whatever, once I've cut the end it usually needs tuning a little back to pitch. I often just change the wound strings, leaving the unwound ones on through 2 or 3 string (partial) changes. After that 2 or 3 partial changes I'll hoik all 6 strings off at once (there's no danger to the neck or any other bit of the guitar in doing this) and put a whole new set on, doing just as Martin said, cleaning the fingerboard (dry cloth), top, bridge and headstock where the strings had previously made wiping these areas tricky. The pulling up thing is, I think, important if I'm going to be doing any critical playing (recording or gig etc) right away - it ensures that the strings stay at the proper pitch rather than doing that annoying "new string pitch drop" thing just at the wrong moment. Actually once I've done that I usually have a few minutes hard thrashing on them and then make any tuning adjustments - occasionally there may be further slight pitch drop here and there to be corrected. Some people cut the excess length off before tuning up - this, though I can't see it makes life any easier, is perfectly fine for most strings, but don't do it with any round core strings you may try (it will say on the packet) or, because of their construction, you'll ruin them. Keith
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Post by grayn on May 21, 2013 17:04:56 GMT
I'm a one at a time changer. I think it's beter for the guitar.
I can't help thinking that locking tuners, like they have on electrics, would be cool on an acoustic. Schallers are my favourite.
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Post by philw on May 21, 2013 17:31:43 GMT
Thanks a lot guys points taken and noted
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Post by calv on May 22, 2013 7:59:18 GMT
I do mine all at once, all off then all on. Haven't noticed any marked difference with the guitar at all. I know with the banjo you are encouraged to change one at a time, but i think that has more to keeping the bridge in place and possibly roughly the same tension on the head. Same as Martin, i cut mine close and bent down and under otherwise i have the same problem, ripped bag or fingers. I like heavier strings, Martin 12's generally, the phosphor bronze ones. Can be a bit heavy on the fingers for newer players but i prefer a warmer, bassier tone of the heavier strings over finger comfort. I did try the 13's once, but i felt it was putting a bit too much strain on the neck of my Takamine, plus they were very heavy on the fingers. That said, i am gradually radiating towards the sound of lighter strings now, i think that has come from my playing improving and being able to produce better tone with my fingers.....albeit at a very amateur level. Calv.
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leoroberts
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Post by leoroberts on May 22, 2013 8:39:45 GMT
Change strings? CHANGE strings? Are you made of money?
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Post by scripsit on May 22, 2013 9:41:38 GMT
I change strings on my main two guitars reasonably often, about every month or so, when I notice that there are intonation and tuning problems because they start to get out of shape where fretted (little flats can be seen on the wound strings in particular when you take them off, if you look closely). This usually coincides with the wound strings looking very grotty, dull in colour and sometimes growing tiny 'beards' of finger oil and callus dust. I take them all off at once so I can clean the neck and fingerboard (warm water and cotton balls to get rid of grunge, wiped off straight away with a soft polishing cloth). No steel string guitar with a truss rod will be harmed in the few minutes the strings are off (and when guitars are shipped the strings are slackened right off anyway, sometimes for days or weeks on end). I use the restringing methods recommended on Frets.com, although I arrived at almost same techniques independently. Even slotheads are easy after a bit of practice. That initial kinking of the ball end was a real discovery and stopped that horrible rising up of the bridge pin when you tune because the ball end has got under the pin itself. www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/SteelStrings/Stringing/ststringing1.htmlwww.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/SteelStrings/Stringing/slotheadstr1.htmlI use medium uncoated strings (D'addario, normally, 13 to 56) and don't bother with any stretching malarky after cutting off the excess string within about a finger's width of the tuning post, just take up to pitch. Play a short piece, retune, play a piece, retune and leave for 20 minutes and you're done. I love the sound of new strings on the first three days, and wish they would stay like that. Don't like the sound or feel of coated strings. The one exception I would make to the 'all strings at once' change is with resophonic guitars. Most National and Dobro style resophonics depend on the string tension over the bridge to keep everything lined up properly on the spider and cone. If you take all the strings off at once it can be a nightmare to get everything set up again, and in fact takes hours and screwdrivers are involved. Don't ask me how I know this. Kym
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Post by fatfingerjohn on May 22, 2013 10:14:14 GMT
Hi, When I bought my last guitar (Taylor 310ce) there was a leaflet enclosed about the 'Taylor Method' of changing strings. I've attached the link to this pdf below. This says take them all off at once which gives you the opportunity to clean the fretboard as well occasionally. I do a fretboard clean lightly every string change and more thoroughly (but carefully) about once a year. I usually change strings every 8-12 weeks (D'Addario EXPs). Whilst I'm not saying that the Taylor method is the right one, for me if it is OK with Bob Taylor, its OK with me. PS I LOVE changing strings because of the anticipation of those lovely new ones. I can usually do it in about 20 minutes; a cheap plastic string winder at about £5.00 is the best accessory I've EVER bought. www.taylorguitars.com/sites/default/files/Steel_Restring.pdf
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Post by scripsit on May 22, 2013 11:01:37 GMT
Have to agree with the poster above about a string winder being useful. These are on ebay for less than $10 www.planetwaves.com/pwProductDetail.Page?ActiveID=4115&productid=549&productname=Peg_Winder_Guitarand include a cutter for the string ends and a little device for popping the bridge pins up. Incredibly handy and really speeds up restringing. I made up a neck rest out of a few bits of pine with some felt glued on to the U-shape cutout where the neck of the guitar goes and can lie the guitar on a table or the breakfast bar on a bit of tee shirt material and do the whole job, including a wipe and polish, in under 15 minutes. Kym
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Post by Martin on May 22, 2013 11:41:25 GMT
Hi, a cheap plastic string winder at about £5.00 is the best accessory I've EVER bought. Agreed. The Planet Waves one above is a big help in winding & cutting strings and even levering stubborn bridge pins out. I think rodders put me onto this winder a while back, and it's a great bit of kit
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Post by rodders on May 22, 2013 11:46:02 GMT
It's a beauty. I think I've lost mine though...
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on May 22, 2013 12:13:08 GMT
It's a beauty. I think I've lost mine though... Maybe those nasty elvses changed it into this:
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Post by earwighoney on May 22, 2013 12:36:06 GMT
I change my strings in the 'lock-tie' method (I think that's what it's called)
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Post by ocarolan on May 22, 2013 13:17:47 GMT
I change my strings in the 'lock-tie' method (I think that's what it's called)................ I used to do that too - for many years. When I stopped doing it (just as an experiment) I noticed no detriment to tuning stability on any of my instruments. I just wind once round over the string and twice underneath it - the tapering towards the middle of the tuner post (capstan) ensures that the over and below winds grip the string ehd where it emerges. Or that's supposed to be the theory anyway. Whether or not it is, it works for me, and makes the strings v easy to remove from the post when changing, and also to thread back through pinless bridges. (Though sometimes I just cut them all by the bridge anyway to remove the string in two pieces very quickly and simply) Another vote for string winders too, though they don't always fit well in the space between adjacent tuners. Saves a lot of wrist ache and speeds the job up hugely. I never use guitar rests etc when changing strings - a combination of horizontal on my knees and vertically between them seems to work well for me. (Yes this is still talking about changing strings! ) (Btw, shouldn't be any need at all to lever bridge pins out - finger and thumb should do if pins properly sized/fitted/fettled as necessary. Sorry, just one of my many hobby horses! ) Keith
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