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Post by Onechordtrick on Feb 28, 2020 16:36:23 GMT
Does the angle of the E strings look OK? I “think” that I read that the strings should be “vertical” (in the aspect of this picture) or am I worrying about nothing? The hole in the tuner barrel is under the yellow arrow. If I need to do anything is it possible to flip the barrel over? Tuners are Grover if that helps.
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Feb 28, 2020 17:27:38 GMT
I've seen plenty worse than that, but it is the sort of thing I don't like to see from an aesthetic point of view. Might be worth disassembling the tuners to see if you can swap the barrels either end to end on the same tuner or interchange left and right. Should come to no harm like it is though. I know "straight string pull" is seen as being desirable, but it's unlikely to make much serious difference - the break angle over the nut is fairly considerable on most slot-heads, so whether another angle sideways adds much by way of friction I don't know.
I think I'd be more concerned about the D and G strings which in the photo look like they may be rubbing on the wood at the edge of their slots.. may be just an illusion in the pic though.....?
Keith
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Post by Onechordtrick on Feb 28, 2020 18:11:27 GMT
Thanks ocarolan I normally apply the principle of “if it ain’t broke fix it ‘til it is” so I’ll see if I can switch next time I change strings. But I need to move house first... Thanks for pointing out the D & G strings; they’re close but not rubbing. But I’ll tidy up when I change strings.
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Post by curmudgeon on Feb 29, 2020 18:14:53 GMT
Hi, all my flat tops are slotted headstock styles.
Over the (many) years, I have determined that the best method for tuning stability, tidiness and nut longevity is to cut strings givng only enough past the capstans to allow for two/three windings - this is my method with length of string past tuner capstan : E = 2.5", A = 3", D = 3.5" - G, B, and E - 4". after cutting, I put a 3/8" 90 degree bend in each to thread into the "little 'ole, then wind like fury.
Oh - 1t and 6th strings should be wound from inside to out, rest wound from outside to inside.
Ideal outcome all strings pass over nut as near to 90 degrees as possible.
Carry on, smoke if you got 'em (but ot near me!)
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Post by Onechordtrick on Feb 29, 2020 18:40:37 GMT
Hi, all my flat tops are slotted headstock styles. Over the (many) years, I have determined that the best method for tuning stability, tidiness and nut longevity is to cut strings givng only enough past the capstans to allow for two/three windings - this is my method with length of string past tuner capstan : E = 2.5", A = 3", D = 3.5" - G, B, and E - 4". after cutting, I put a 3/8" 90 degree bend in each to thread into the "little 'ole, then wind like fury. Oh - 1t and 6th strings should be wound from inside to out, rest wound from outside to inside. Ideal outcome all strings pass over nut as near to 90 degrees as possible. Carry on, smoke if you got 'em (but ot near me!) Thanks Does your method for string lengths work with nylon strings as well?
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Post by Onechordtrick on Mar 1, 2020 16:33:26 GMT
For the benefit of anyone who has the same question: no, the barrel isn’t reversible. However with careful restringing I got a much better angle. Bass side will have to wait until I restring.
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Post by Mike Floorstand on Mar 1, 2020 20:51:49 GMT
Looks like you have a more geometrically satisfying c.90 degrees from nut to barrel for the E string now, although personally I actually prefer a bit of an angle so that the string tension is pulling itself towards the barrel hole (i.e. the opposite of what you have), although I'm sure it could never unravel or pull itself out of its hole, it just feels a bit more secure that way.
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