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Post by clydeslide on Jan 13, 2014 20:06:12 GMT
I would assume brass pins would make a guitar quieter as they add weight to the top and stop it vibrating as freely. Whether the would be noticeable I don't know but logically that's what they should do.
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jan 18, 2014 9:05:59 GMT
I'm not using bridge pins on my guitars at the moment. The system I am trying uses aluminium alloy washers threaded onto the string. Tensioning the string then holds the small washer tight against the bridge plate. When I started using this method I cut-down some cheap pins to pop into the holes to make the guitar look "normal" but I've stopped doing this and just leave the strings appearing from the holes apparently unattached, which gets some funny looks. This system appears to give more sustain and more stability when tuning, especially with a new set of strings. Hmm. Interesting. Alasdair. It is that! I'd like to see a photo if you have one slasher I think they might be these.
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Post by Martin on Jan 18, 2014 11:44:20 GMT
Looks like it Dave, thanks That's the fella who's quite active on AGF isn't it? Interesting idea.
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Post by ocarolan on Jan 18, 2014 12:22:24 GMT
................ That's the fella who's quite active on AGF isn't it? ................ Yup! Keith
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Post by slasher on Jan 21, 2014 14:39:01 GMT
Yep, that is the system. I thought I would give it a try as it costs little and am happy so far. The actual kit is probably worth about 30p, but I thought that the price is worth it for the idea of anchoring strings in this way. I've always thought that building these fantastic "boxes of sound" that we love, made strong and light, but then use bridge pins to attach the strings seemed odd, some sort of pinless attachment always seemed a good idea.
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jan 21, 2014 14:56:06 GMT
I've always thought that building these fantastic "boxes of sound" that we love, made strong and light, but then use bridge pins to attach the strings seemed odd, some sort of pinless attachment always seemed a good idea. Well rest your pinkie on the top and that will probably add the same mass as a set of wooden bridge-pins Light doesn't always mean best.
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Post by slasher on Jan 22, 2014 11:44:31 GMT
It is not the weight of the bridge pins that concerns me. It just seems a crude method of attachement. I always play from above without even a pinkie touching the top! Why get that nice top moving and then dampen it?
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Post by davewhite on Jan 22, 2014 12:09:09 GMT
It is not the weight of the bridge pins that concerns me. It just seems a crude method of attachement. Done properly bridge pins are a very elegant method in my view. All of the Technofret "claims/problems" are achieved/solved by using properly fitted unslotted bridge pins. They should be removable with fingers and their job is to anchor the strings firmly and stop the ball ends moving around and eating into the bridge plate. As a matter of interest how easy is it to replace a single string if it breaks without slackening the others?
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Post by clydeslide on Jan 22, 2014 12:40:19 GMT
It is not the weight of the bridge pins that concerns me. It just seems a crude method of attachement. Done properly bridge pins are a very elegant method in my view. All of the Technofret "claims/problems" are achieved/solved by using properly fitted unslotted bridge pins. They should be removable with fingers and their job is to anchor the strings firmly and stop the ball ends moving around and eating into the bridge plate. As a matter of interest how easy is it to replace a single string if it breaks without slackening the others? Add to that, if it breaks at the saddle or close to it you now have a lump of aluminium rattling around in your guitar.
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Post by Phil Taylor on Jan 22, 2014 14:37:20 GMT
There are so many things that affect the sound of a guitar - quality of instrument, materials, construction, 12 fret or 14 fret, sound ports, string material, string gauge, string tension, playing technique, thumb pick/no thumb pick, long/short nails, nail/flesh, forearm resting on the on top, finger/s resting on the top, etc. etc. and IMO of all these bridge pins probably affect the tone you hear when playing the least...................I just get ones that I think look nice Phil
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Post by slasher on Jan 23, 2014 10:56:50 GMT
I bow to Dave's knowledge as a luthier re well-fitted bridge pins, but most sold are slotted and are not easily removed just using fingers. Guitar shops sell loads of bridge pin lifting devices because so many bridge pins are jammed-in and cannot be removed without the leverage they provide. It is very easy to change a single string, provided you remember to keep the tube with your spare strings in your case. As for breaking a string and having the tiny washer rattling about, well you do the same as when you drop a flat pick in--turn your guitar upside down and get it out of the sound hole! I know a large number of players who hardly ever break a string. Hav'nt broken a string myself in fifteen years.
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Post by davewhite on Jan 23, 2014 11:16:25 GMT
Slasher,
I'm not trying to rubbish the Technofret product - it's another choice and option - and in fairness the claims on their website are referenced to poor fitting slotted pins that seem to be in most guitars as you say. What I'm trying to say is that THAT is the problem that really needs addressing and for around £30-40 you could have the bridge slotted and a set of unslotted pins properly fitted by a luthier/guitar tech. Slotted pins become unslotted pins when you turn them round too.
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Post by ocarolan on Jan 23, 2014 11:29:34 GMT
I bow to Dave's knowledge as a luthier re well-fitted bridge pins, but most sold are slotted and are not easily removed just using fingers. Guitar shops sell loads of bridge pin lifting devices because so many bridge pins are jammed-in and cannot be removed without the leverage they provide...................... Dave's slotted bridges/unslotted pins do indeed work extremely well - great system. It is, however, a relatively simple matter to achieve easily removed pins with unslotted bridges and slotted pins. (Apols to long standing members who will have heard me ranting about this before.....!) IMHO bridge pin removing gizmos are an abomination, and, other than on an instrument just obtained, should not be necessary. Properly fitted slotted bridge pins should be removable with fingers once the string is slack. It is the string tension that should hold the pin in place, and not the friction of a tapered pin forced into a tapered hole. The pin should drop in and out of the hole easily with no string in place. A little gentle sanding of the pin may be required to achieve this. If the pin then is stiff with a string in place, there is insufficent space for the string - the slot in the pin does need to be wide and deep enough to accommodate the thick overwound end of the string without jamming - I always take a small file to the slots in new bridge pins to ensure that the pin is an easy fit once the string has been correctly placed. Obviously the pins for the 6th and 5th strings are the ones likely to need most work, but others often do as well. Yes, it takes a little time and care, but it's a lot better than the frustration of stuck pins at every string change. Keith
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Post by slasher on Jan 23, 2014 14:30:38 GMT
Dave+Keith Thanks for your input. It is one reason why I joined this site, so I could benefit from the (usually greater!) knowledge of others. Interesting that there seem to be so many guitars that are not well finished in this area. A friend of mine on this bridge pin topic said "If it aint broke don't fix it" but if that idea had always been followed we would all be playing very small "gut" strung guitars. Cheers!
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Post by sigmadel on Jan 24, 2014 1:08:11 GMT
i can remove the pins in my Freshman with a little finger pressure . The Sigma has a little more grip but easily sorted with a pin puller . I dont really fancy that other idea much .
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