colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 6, 2014 11:29:45 GMT
The back braces are carved and the back 'tapped', (apparently that's what you are supposed to do). Colin
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 6, 2014 11:44:37 GMT
On to the top bracing. The braces are cut from my usual European spruce wedges that are left over from violin stock, and laid out over my plan.
The fan braces are 7mm wide by 3mm high. This brace stock is very tight grain, the fan braces are 7mm wide.
I cut the soundhole patch from spruce 1.5mm thick. and glue on in the go bar on a flat board.
You'll notice a pencil mark about 40mm from the top, this is the origin of the kite for the fan brace layout. They radiate from this point to points a set distance apart on the line across the lower bout. Torres varied the origin and angle of the braces on different guitars, but this layout is the most typical of his best First Epoch guitars. We know this as he kindly used to leave his pencil marks on the top.
The rest of the upper bout braces are glued on, again ob the flat board.
Colin
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 6, 2014 11:58:24 GMT
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alig
C.O.G.
Posts: 1,059
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Post by alig on Jul 7, 2014 9:42:12 GMT
I find all this fascinating.
Thanks for posting this thread.
Alasdair.
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davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Jul 7, 2014 11:51:07 GMT
Colin - lovely work as usual
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 7, 2014 12:14:55 GMT
Thanks Alasdair and Dave.
Well, the rims are ready, the top is ready, time to unite them. The top is secured to the contoured side of the solera, ensuring that the centre line is lined up with the top. The neck support part of the solera has a 2mm slope down from the 12th fret to the nut.
As you can see the side supports for the back braces have already been glued into place.
Fish glue is then brushed onto the rim and it is inverted over the top and again care taken to ensure that the centre line is matched. I first add go-bars to the head block area, then clamp the neck down to the support. Then follow bars at the tail, waist and round the rest of the rim. I just use pieces of hardboard to protect the rims. Keep the rims in the mould if you use kerfed linings!
Colin
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 8, 2014 10:32:57 GMT
The harmonic bar side supports are glued on then it's time to glue on the back. First add the label to the back. I don't use labels under the soundhole, but a simple small label on the back in the upper bout.
With the guitar face down on the solera, the neck is clamped along the centre line, as the neck support is sloped 2mm from the 12th fret to the nut, this sets the neck angle when the back is glued on. I draw a pencil line all round the rim and on the foot block and rotate the 15" sanding disc on it until the pencil lines have been removed all round. This just ensures that the rim in it's final position is a perfect match for the dome. Fish glue is brushed on to the rim and the top clamped down with the go-bars, ensuring that the centre line of the top is right.
Note: before gluing on the back make sure to remove the soundhole clamp..... ( oh yes, been there, done that )
Colin
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Post by earwighoney on Jul 8, 2014 22:28:35 GMT
Beautiful work.
Didn't know it's going to Brian Itzkin, he posts on the UMGF. He posted some pics of a Wenge dread he made recently. Seems a good young chap!
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 8, 2014 23:13:32 GMT
Yes it is for Brian, I've known him since he first wanted to make a guitar, and have been helping him with his building. He is off to college soon, part of which will be studying guitar. His Yamaha isn't really up to it, and he asked me what it would cost to if make him one of my Torres. So I said I'd make it for the cost of shipping to the USA. He is a really keen young lad, I think he was about 15 when he started to make his first guitar, and has wanted one of my guitars for a long time.
Colin
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 10, 2014 15:14:48 GMT
After the back was glued on I put on some shellac, just to see what it might look like, this is of course just a single wash coat so no depth. Some of you wondered what it would look like under finish, well I think it might look quite nice. Even brought out some curl. The rosette with some shellac. Oh well a couple of days of decorating, then back to the guitars. Colin
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007
C.O.G.
Posts: 2,603
My main instrument is: 1965 Hagstrom H45E
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Post by 007 on Jul 10, 2014 15:29:47 GMT
i think finished its going to look stunning
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Post by colan on Jul 11, 2014 18:54:53 GMT
After the back was glued on I put on some shellac, just to see what it might look like, this is of course just a single wash coat so no depth. Some of you wondered what it would look like under finish, well I think it might look quite nice. Even brought out some curl. The rosette with some shellac. Oh well a couple of days of decorating, then back to the guitars. Colin That's a very interesting back. The grain works in the abstract- which adds to the fascination of a good guitar. Some grains are quite dull but yours is interestingly lively.
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
Posts: 26,146
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jul 11, 2014 19:23:58 GMT
That's just about gorgeous, colins
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Post by pnut on Jul 11, 2014 21:20:21 GMT
Can I just say as someone who loves this forum and loves looking at what goes into building the wonderful wooden boxes we all get off on using or trying to use, this is one of the most interesting and informative threads I've ever followed on any forum to do with anything! When you finish this and do the lacquer it won't just look awesome I guess it will sound awesome to, I can only stand back in internet land and look on with respect,! Whoever ends up owning this will be very lucky.
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 18, 2014 13:53:31 GMT
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