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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2013 17:58:26 GMT
Patience grasshopper I seek not to know the answers, but to understand the questions. Man who catch fly with chopstick accomplish anything. Keith Man who catch fly with chopstick not hear of flyspray?
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 28, 2013 17:28:46 GMT
More progress. Next the mahogany neck and tail blocks are made. The neck block is a two piece construction and the first piece has two 5mm holes drilled for the carbon fibre internal braces. The two pieces are roughly shaped and glued together using hot hide glue: The neck block shaping is finished, the bolt hole drilled and the slot for the fingerboard support cut - the final depth of the slot will be determined when the neck is fitted: The mahogany tail block is made with two 5mm holes for the internal carbon fibre braces: The Bubinga are bent using this jig. The final shape is done using a hot-pipe later: Next the sides are shaped on the hot pipe, cut to length and then glued to the neck-block using fish glue using the mould as a jig:
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andrewjw
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Post by andrewjw on Mar 28, 2013 17:54:58 GMT
It's looking good Dave... I think Hot Hide Glue would be a great name for a bluegrass band..?!
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 29, 2013 9:19:09 GMT
It's looking good Dave... I think Hot Hide Glue would be a great name for a bluegrass band..?! Andrew, Thanks. Yes, maybe "Hot Hide Glue and the X Braces"
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 29, 2013 18:08:32 GMT
The excess side length is trimmed and the 5mm carbon fibre rods glued in using fish glue. The sides are also glued to the tail block at the same time using fish glue: The end graft channel is cut and the Macassar ebony end graft flanked by black/ pear/ black purfling glued in using fish glue: The ebony "porthole" is then glued into the side using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Mar 30, 2013 22:24:04 GMT
The top and back are marked for the position of the braces: The European Spruce soundhole patch is glued on using hot hide glue: The European spruce back X braces are profiled to a 10' radius and notched. The centre strip is notched and the X braces glued on one at a time in the go-bar deck using hot hide glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Apr 1, 2013 14:22:40 GMT
The back's lower bout ladder brace is profiled to a 10' radius glued on using hot hide glue: The top's soundhole is routed out: Next the A Frame braces notched to fit the main ladder brace are then glued on using hot hide glue one at a time: The European Spruce main ladder brace is profiled to a 10' radius, notched to fit the A Frame braces and then is glued on the top using hot-hide glue: Next the transverse brace is glued in after it has been notched to fit over the A Frame brace: Finally the small brace behind the soundhole patch is glued on using hot-hide glue: The sides are profiled to match the top and back's curvature and the mahogany reverse-kerfed linings glued on using fish glue:
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leoroberts
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Post by leoroberts on Apr 1, 2013 14:25:50 GMT
I'm going to have to start some serious practice so that I can play something on this - otherwise my 'review' will be: "it fits really well into the case"
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Apr 2, 2013 18:49:40 GMT
The Macassar ebony X brace cap is glued on the back using hot-hide glue: The Bubinga back centre strips are glued in using hot hide glue: Then the mahogany side braces are notched into the linings and glued in using hot hide glue: Here’s the completed rim set: The back's braces are then carved and the back “voiced” – here’s the result: Notches are cut in the linings for the back brace ends and the back glued to the rim-set using fish glue: As access through the soundhole will be tight I decided to glue the label in before the top went on: European spruce caps are glued over the top's A frame braces: Then the "voicing" process starts - the braces are profiled to give the top response I am looking for. When the top has been "voiced" to my satisfaction I sign and date it: Here's the voiced top: Notches are cut in the linings to fit the top’s brace ends and the top is then glued to the rim-set using fish glue:
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Post by Mike Floorstand on Apr 2, 2013 22:41:23 GMT
I am enjoying this build thread and everything seems to be progressing very nicely. I wonder is anyone else humming the theme tune from Goldfinger as they read this ... "Bubinga ..."
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Apr 2, 2013 22:57:37 GMT
"Travel safely. Sing sweetly." Excellent inscription Dave!
I'm enjoying it too, Joe, but sorry, I haven't been humming.
Keith
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Apr 3, 2013 8:54:34 GMT
Leo - you bet Keith - thanks. I wonder is anyone else humming the theme tune from Goldfinger as they read this ... "Bubinga ..." Joe, I'm looking forward to your video of that one - especially if you dress fro the part
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Post by Martin on Apr 3, 2013 14:26:48 GMT
I'm enjoying it too, Joe, but sorry, I haven't been humming. Keith I beg to differ... It's coming along really well, Dave!
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Apr 5, 2013 10:08:26 GMT
Thanks Martin. Next the neck scarfe joint is cut and glued on the mahogany neck blank using hot hide glue: The stacked heel is glued up using hot hide glue: The truss rod slot is routed out: The carbon fibre truss rod is glued in using fish glue: Then the slots for the outer two carbon-fibre rods are routed: The outer carbon fibre rods with mahogany caps are glued in with fish glue and clamped while the glue dries:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Apr 10, 2013 17:48:42 GMT
The sides are scraped level and true with the box in the Troji and the edges of the top sanded a little thinner. The Macassar Ebony bindings and black / pear/ black side purflings are then bent using this jig: Here’s the result after touching up using the hot pipe: Next the top binding channels are cut using the binding jig to the depth of the bindings plus side purflings. The channels are stopped just short of the end-graft. Purfling pieces are stuck using double-sided tape over the end-graft. The binding channel is then cut over the end graft with the jig riding on these so that the depth cut is just that of the binding. The end graft side purflings can then be mitred using a chisel: The process is repeated on the back: Next the top and back purfling channels are cut and the top bindings and purflings are then glued on using fish glue followed by the back:
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