R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135 
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Mar 4, 2017 14:19:39 GMT
I think you'll find that's just a bit smarter than mine, Nigel. Positively deluxe!
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Post by nkforster on Mar 4, 2017 14:24:03 GMT
I think you'll find that's just a bit smarter than mine, Nigel. Positively deluxe!
Yet a lot less complicated! Though I have to say - I like the clamped on guides when sanding braces and ribs, I never thought if that. Well done. n |
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Mar 7, 2017 12:57:21 GMT
Here's a question I always mean to ask at about this stage of a build: how thick is your headstock? I generally put a plate on the front face but not on the back and that is partly because I am loath to remove too much meat from the basic structural plank of the neck/headstock. This is, after all, a fairly stressed area (because of string tension) and, although a perfectly flat facing glued on immaculately shouldn't weaken the headstock at all, I am never entirely sure that I trust myself to go too thin. So, you "established" luthiers/build-contributors (e.g. colins , davewhite , francis , RosieTGC , ... leoroberts ) do you have any thoughts on this? (Thanks in anticipation if you do...)
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leoroberts
C.O.G. 
Posts: 26,145
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Mar 7, 2017 13:08:00 GMT
Whilst I enjoy being in such exalted company I rather feel like Donald Trump must when he is with sane people - pleased to be there but with absolutely no evidence to support my inclusion. I'm afraid I'm a consumer, not a producer, Rob  |
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davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Mar 7, 2017 13:08:41 GMT
Here's a question I always mean to ask at about this stage of a build: how thick is your headstock? I generally put a plate on the front face but not on the back and that is partly because I am loath to remove too much meat from the basic structural plank of the neck/headstock. This is, after all, a fairly stressed area (because of string tension) and, although a perfectly flat facing glued on immaculately shouldn't weaken the headstock at all, I am never entirely sure that I trust myself to go too thin. So, you "established" luthiers/build-contributors (e.g. colins , davewhite , francis , RosieTGC , ... leoroberts ) do you have any thoughts on this? (Thanks in anticipation if you do...) Basically it depends on the tuners I'm using which will give you a min/max range. My headstocks - including any veneers - usually end up somewhere between 14-16mm thick for solid head and 20-21mm for slotheads. |
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Mar 7, 2017 13:12:11 GMT
Whilst I enjoy being in such exalted company I rather feel like Donald Trump must when he is with sane people - pleased to be there but with absolutely no evidence to support my inclusion. I'm afraid I'm a consumer, not a producer, Rob |
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francis
C.O.G.
Posts: 2,483
My main instrument is: Whatever I'm building...
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Post by francis on Mar 7, 2017 16:37:33 GMT
Go with Dave on this. Your tuners will be the deciding factor - don't forget the thickness of any washers/nuts on the front face - not that I've ever done that myself....  |
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Mar 7, 2017 18:02:13 GMT
Go with Dave on this. Your tuners will be the deciding factor - don't forget the thickness of any washers/nuts on the front face - not that I've ever done that myself....
No I suppose I do what you and Dave are suggesting. The question is really about adding thick facing and backing plates: how much mahogany/maple etc. needs to be left at the core so that you feel confident it's man (or woman) enough for the job? |
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davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Mar 7, 2017 18:28:27 GMT
The question is really about adding thick facing and backing plates: how much mahogany/maple etc. needs to be left at the core so that you feel confident it's man (or woman) enough for the job? Well - you're happy to laminate the sides so why not laminate the headstock too  The veneer plates aren't that thick - usually just over 2mm - so my "central core" is usually 9-12mm thick. As for your choice of where to cut and place the scarfe joint I prefer to have it under the headstock rather than on the neck shaft as it will be covered by the front and back veneers I use. Visually I think the joint is less noticeable there and also the neck shaft is a "sensitive" area for the player so if you joint there it will have to feel "seamless" after neck carving. |
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francis
C.O.G.
Posts: 2,483
My main instrument is: Whatever I'm building...
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Post by francis on Mar 7, 2017 19:20:45 GMT
Again go with Dave on the scarf joint positioning (not really copying Dave it's just that great minds think alike) - my excuse anyway  |
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Post by nkforster on Mar 7, 2017 19:55:44 GMT
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Post by nkforster on Mar 7, 2017 19:57:15 GMT
Like a snooker cue.
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Mar 7, 2017 20:11:23 GMT
Good points, Dave. I shall stop worrying. (And, by the way, all my joints are seamless!)
Well agreed, Francis!
And, Nigel, that does indeed add strength and beauty but I think I might have to spend rather a lot of time working out how to execute it cleanly; I mean, you've got to be able to visualise where which bit of wood will end up after some severe carving and I don't feel I have a complete grasp of the geometry round the back of the nut. Something to aim at, perhaps.
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The veneer plates aren't that thick - usually just over 2mm - so my "central core" is usually 9-12mm thick.
Jo whoever he is.
