foz
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by foz on Dec 28, 2018 11:16:32 GMT
Hi all,
I was hoping to get some advice from luthiers on this forum about how best to cut timbers to make back and sides blanks for an acoustic guitar.
I like the idea of sourcing my own timbers and cutting my own back and sides, but as yet i am not sure on how to achieve this as i have doubts on timber sizes to achieve the bookmatching required for both backs and sides. For example, i assume that back and sides are cut from the same timber blank, but back and sides are quite different in length and width, so how would someone go about making the decisions on size and cut?
Also, what techniques are used to cut to the appropriate thickness of 5mm etc.. I have limited tools and would be reliant on a Japanese and western saws.
I have read about Francis and David White cutting their own; if there are any tips or guidance (photos are great as well), i would be very grateful.
Thank everyone in advance,
Andy
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garynava
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 460 
My main instrument is: Stanley No.5
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Post by garynava on Dec 29, 2018 15:23:57 GMT
Hello Andy, I've had a go at re-sawing by hand, wood for a mandolin, you'll find a video here. Guitar wood will require a much deeper cut and I would have thought impractical by hand. That said there are some interesting videos on YouTube of fellow nutters doing this- search "re-saw by hand". Cheer Gary |
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foz
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by foz on Dec 29, 2018 20:33:11 GMT
Gary,
Thanks for your link and the search topic for youtube. It certainly helps to know what key words to search for; there are loads of videos.
I will review, digest and perhaps even come back with more questions....
Cheers
Andy
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Post by lars on Dec 30, 2018 20:23:31 GMT
I think it would be rather difficult with just hand tools. I've cut a few blanks for mandolins and octave mandalas in a medium sized band saw. That was pretty tricky and tops and backs for octave mandolins had to be 4-pieces due to the maximum height of the band saw. The saw blade has to be very sharp and the whole saw must be carefullyl set up. NK Forster once showed a very simple jig for steering the wood - it might be somewhere here on the forum. I will try that jig later when sawing blanks for a mandolin.
I don't think that you necessarily have to saw sides and back from the same piece. It's merely esthetic. You don't even have to have the same kind of wood for back and sides!
My best advice is to find someone who owns a rather large band saw. Either if you lend it and makes the work yourself or if you get that person to make it for you. If you persist to make it entirely by hand you'll have to start with blanks a lot thicker than you would with a band saw. Even a stable saw won't cut as straight as you want it to (that is true also for band saws!). Saw it from all four sides a little by little and let the cuts from the other sides act like guides for the saw. I think a good quality fox tail saw would be the best option.
Good luck!
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Dec 31, 2018 12:40:40 GMT
I've heard of people using a table saw to make guide cuts then using a hand saw to complete the cut, but to be honest I wouldn't want to try it. I cut all of my timber on my band saw, this way I can get the quality of cut I need without wasting too much wood. I personally wouldn't even try by hand. As Lars says can you find someone to cut it for you, maybe one of us is close enough to you.
If you are just starting out in making guitars, I'd forget about cutting your own wood for now and get a nice sapele or walnut set from one of the suppliers easy to bend and should be of the right grain orientation.
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foz
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by foz on Jan 2, 2019 8:35:45 GMT
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and suggestions.
I think there is an element of nostalgia behind my desire to cut them by hand. Having looked at the videos, using a frame saw seems to be the best approach, with a precut channel and a lot of caution. Tom Fidgen has a good video showing this with thin cuts, which is inspiring.
I have managed to recut bookmatch wood before, but much thicker than 5mm, using a backless handsaw. My experience from this was a need to remove more material from both faces due to more that desired wandering from my line. Therefore, i may need to aim for a thickness of 6 to 8 mm and then spend more time planing. Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks again,
Andy
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francis
C.O.G. 
Posts: 2,483
My main instrument is: Whatever I'm building...
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Post by francis on Jan 2, 2019 11:14:23 GMT
foz - short answer: No its not reasonable. I understand the desire to cut your own materials but the waste generated is too high. With a 25mm thick board I would expect to get 2 book-matched pairs using a bandsaw. There's sure to be someone in your area with a bandsaw capable of cutting one or more sets for you. For the pieces to match the finished surface needs to be as close to the saw cut as possible especially if the timber is not quarter cut to start with (think log or slab sawn boards). What's your location?
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foz
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by foz on Jan 4, 2019 18:40:05 GMT
Thanks Francis, it's a good point about the book matching being lost if i need to remove too much material and they are not quarter sawn.
I will consider if there is anyone local who could support these cuts on a band saw.
Thanks to everyone who responded.
Cheers
Andy
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Jo whoever he is.
