davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
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Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Jan 30, 2019 12:38:14 GMT
Thanks Colin. The European spruce X braces are profiled to a 13’ radius, notched and then glued on one at a time: Then the two A frame braces are glued on after notching: The transverse brace is glued on after notching to span the A frame braces: Next the Bubinga bridge-plate is glued on using hot hide glue and a caul in the go-bar deck:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jan 31, 2019 10:15:29 GMT
The brace behind the bridge-plate is then glued on: Then the spruce X brace cap is glued on using hot hide glue: Then the tone bars are glued on: The finger braces are then glued on: The braces are carved and the top “voiced”. Then the top is signed and dated: Here’s the “voiced” top:
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
Posts: 26,148
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jan 31, 2019 10:26:21 GMT
I'm going to have to start checking out youchoob for ideas about how to actually play this bugger... Looking good, Dave
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 1, 2019 13:01:28 GMT
Thanks Leo. The Claro Walnut back strips are glued in using hot hide glue: The linings are notched to accept the brace ends and the top is glued to the rim-set using fish glue: The hollow arm section of the top is then glued on using fish glue – the join will be underneath the fretboard:
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Feb 1, 2019 13:04:32 GMT
Looking good Dave, great progress. I was noodling on mine last night, think I need some practice!
Colin
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 3, 2019 12:21:06 GMT
Thanks Colin. The Macassar Ebony bindings have the black/ pear/ black side purflings glued on using fish glue and are then taped together: They are then bent in the Fox-style bender to get the waist and lower bout shape – the upper bout shape is bent by hand on the hot-pipe: The top binding channels are cut using the binding jig to the depth of the bindings plus side purflings. The channels are stopped just short of the end-graft. Purfling pieces are stuck using double-sided tape over the end-graft. The binding channel is then cut over the end graft with the jig riding on these so that the depth cut is just that of the binding. The end graft side purflings can then be mitred using a chisel: This process is repeated for the back: The top purfling channels are then cut: The black/ pear / black top purflings are glued in using fish glue: The top bindings and black/ pear / black side purflings are glued in using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 4, 2019 12:25:26 GMT
The back purfling channels are then cut: The black/ pear / black back purflings are glued in using fish glue: The back bindings and black/ pear / black side purflings are glued in using fish glue: When the glue is dry the bindings and purflings are scraped and sanded flush:
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Post by earthbalm on Feb 4, 2019 14:05:59 GMT
Looking very nice indeed DW!
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 5, 2019 16:45:25 GMT
Thanks Dale. The Macassar Ebony fingerboard is marked for the frets and the slots cut using a 3.2mm router bit in this jig: The fingerboard will be positioned on the body for gluing using wooden dowels. The fingerboard is positioned on the body, lined with the centre line and two 3mm holes drilled through for the dowels: The rope purfling frets are then glued in using pva glue: The fingerboard is then tapered and the Macassar Ebony bindings are then glued on using fish glue: The positions of the inlaid side/front markers are marked on the fingerboard and routed with a 2.5mm bit using this jig: The Spalted Beech markers are then glued in and the fingerboard levelled. Here’s the result: The end of the fingerboard is routed to match the soundhole curve: Here’s the completed fingerboard on the body:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 6, 2019 18:50:48 GMT
The Macassar Ebony bridge blank is sanded on the top to match the top’s curvature: The bridge slot is then routed using this jig: The rear of the bridge is ramped and the bridge-pin holes drilled: The bridge-pin holes are then counter-sunk: The rest of the bridge is then shaped and the bone saddle fitted: The bridge is carefully positioned on the top and the outer two bridge-pin holes are drilled through: Here’s the bridge on the top:
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
Posts: 26,148
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Feb 7, 2019 8:45:56 GMT
Blimey! This is coming on a-pace!
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davewhite
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Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Feb 7, 2019 14:06:15 GMT
It is indeed Leo The back and sides are then pore filled using egg white – 240 grit sandpaper is dipped into the egg white and sanded on the back and sides to make a wood slurry that is pushed into the pores. The egg white acts as a binding agent and the pores are effectively filled by the same wood dust: A 12mm hole is then drilled for the pickup end-jack - more about the pickup later: Then the pre-catalysed lacquer coats are sprayed:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 8, 2019 15:37:52 GMT
The fingerboard is then glued onto the body using fish glue:
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colins
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Post by colins on Feb 8, 2019 15:42:52 GMT
Soundhole and soundport cut-outs do come in handy don't they Dave!
Colin
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davewhite
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Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Feb 9, 2019 13:08:08 GMT
They do indeed Colin The position for the bridge is scribed and the lacquer carefully removed: Then the bridge is glued on using hot hide glue:
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