colins
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Post by colins on Jul 8, 2019 15:44:27 GMT
I like the top bracing pattern Dave.
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jul 9, 2019 11:03:28 GMT
The American Black Walnut bindings are taped together with the side and top/back purflings and are then bent to shape in the Fox-style bender: Then it’s out with “The Scutter” to cut the binding channels. The channels are first cut on the top the width of the linings and the depth of the linings plus side purflings. Some scrap pieces of the side purfling are stuck onto the top at the end graft with double-sided tape. The router rides on these to cut the rest of the binding channel. The channels are tidied up with a chisel and the side purflings can be mitred: Then the back binding channels were cut using the same process: Next the router is set to cut the top purfling channels and these are routed out. Then the long task of making sure that the bindings and purflings fit in the channels and the channels adjusted accordingly with test fit after test fit until they do: The top purflings were then glued in using fish glue: Next the router is set to cut the back purflings and these are routed out: The back purflings are then glued in using fish glue: The back and top bindings were then glued in using fish glue: The channel for the back strip is then routed using this jig: The Claro Walnut backstrip with black/ pear/ black mitred purfling edging is then glued in: When the glue is dry the backstrip is scraped and sanded flush: Here’s the box after the bindings have been scraped and sanded flush and the hole for the neck extension cut:
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colins
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Post by colins on Jul 9, 2019 11:29:49 GMT
Great workmanship Dave, as always. Yes, it is a long task checking and adjusting the fit of the binding and purfling, but it is what makes the difference between just a guitar and a quality hand made guitar. Lovely stuff.
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Post by Cams on Jul 9, 2019 15:16:09 GMT
Fascinating thread. I love these photo essay posts. Thanks for sharing it Dave.
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jul 12, 2019 9:26:03 GMT
The Mahogany neck blank has been thicknessed and now the scarfe joint for the peghead is cut on the bandsaw. The headstock pieces are trued and then glued using hot hide glue and this clamping jig: The pieces of the Mahogany staked heel are then glued together using hot hide glue: The next job is to route the truss rod slot . . . . . . and the slots for the carbon fibre bars: The two-way truss rod and rods are checked for fit and are then glued in together with a mahogany cap over the truss rod using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jul 13, 2019 13:51:12 GMT
A piece of mahogany is glued onto the headstock to complete the surface for the angled nut and sanded flush with the headstock face. The Claro Walnut headstock veneer has the nut edge sanded at an angle to match the headstock to neck-shaft angle and then it’s glued on using fish glue: The Claro Walnut back-strap for the headstock was bent on the hot-pipe and glued on using fish glue: The tuner holes are then marked and drilled: The headstock is then shaped and the tuners test fitted:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jul 17, 2019 8:17:51 GMT
Then the after routing a rebate slot where the threaded inserts will go the stacked heel was glued on to the neck using hot hide glue: The neck is cut to fit the top fingerboard extension slot and the heel sanded to fit the body with the neck in correct alignment and angle in relation to the top. Then the positions for the threaded inserts are marked, the holes drilled and the inserts fitted: Here’s the neck bolted to the body for the first time:
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Post by andyhowell on Jul 17, 2019 15:05:59 GMT
Like the shape of this Dave — much nicer than the standard Dreadnaught ....
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Jul 30, 2019 8:05:14 GMT
The fretboard is two pieces of Madagascan Rosewood joined at the twelfth fret position and glued onto a mahogany backing piece: Next the fretboard is thicknessed, the fret positions marked out and the fret slots cut in this jig: Then the sound-hole end of the fretboard is cut to match the soundhole (after allowing for binding) using my circle cutter jig: A piece of the Claro Walnut binding with b/w/b/ purfling is bent on the hot pipe to follow the soundhole curve and is then glued to the fretboard: The Claro Walnut bindings with b/pear/b purflings are then glued on using fish glue: The positions of the inlaid side/front markers are marked on the fretboard and routed with a 1.6mm bit using this jig: The Ebony markers are then glued in and the fretboard levelled. Here’s the result:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Aug 3, 2019 11:08:16 GMT
The fingerboard is then glued to the neck using fish glue: Holes are drilled in the neck heel for two 6mm carbon-fibre rods which are then glued in using fish glue: The Claro Walnut heel cap together with b/p/b veneers is then glued on using hot hide glue: The neck is then carved: The fingerboard is radiused: Then the frets are pressed in: Here’s the fretted neck tested for fit on the body.
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Aug 3, 2019 11:10:47 GMT
I’d forgotten that this was a multiscale... looking forward to seeing how it compares to Sybil
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Post by Vinny on Aug 3, 2019 13:13:58 GMT
The neck is then carved... Just like that. Oh, to have the requisite skills! Vinny
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Aug 3, 2019 14:01:43 GMT
I’d forgotten that this was a multiscale... looking forward to seeing how it compares to Sybil Leo - there's only 12mm difference between the scale lengths compared with 30mm on Sybil and Sybil is definitely more curvy
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Aug 3, 2019 14:02:35 GMT
The neck is then carved... Just like that. Oh, to have the requisite skills! Vinny As Colin Symonds so eloquently explained to me you just take away all of the bits that aren't the neck
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Aug 8, 2019 8:21:52 GMT
The Indian Rosewood bridge blank is sanded on the top to match the top’s curvature: The saddle slots are then routed using this jig: The rear of the bridge is ramped and the bridge-pin holes drilled: The bridge-pin holes are then counter-sunk: The rest of the bridge is shaped. The bridge is carefully positioned on the top and the outer two bridge-pin holes are drilled through: The bridge is held on with two bridge pins through these holes:
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