olsk
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by olsk on Jul 21, 2019 18:17:53 GMT
Hey, Just started a new build for a good friend of mine. Will be an OM 28 style steel string, but with a few differences, the main one being my own body design which is slightly smaller than Martin's OM shape. Engelmann Spruce top - a really creamy, tight grained piece Indian Rosewood back and sides Honduras Mahogany neck Indian Rosewood fretboard and bridge Herringbone purfling & rosette Ivoroid bindings Trying to get everything perfect on this build. The last 14th fret spruce model I made in this shape came out a bit stiff, so I am going to take the bracing down more at the edges, and I have also used normal kerfing (rather than stiffer, reversed kerfing) At about 2.8mm. Sounds 'floppy' now it is down to thickness, but once it is braced it will come alive again. Can't even count the grain lines. Prepping braces. 15 foot radius for the back. Only 3 back braces as the size is smaller than a typical OM. I am eager to try a go bar deck, but for now I glue one or two braces at a time, and really clamp the hell out of it. The spruce for the X brace is super dense and straight grained. Will remove a lot more material. For the headstock veneer and end graft I have done book matched rosewood pieces. Routing the saddle slot with a cobbled together jig. I go for a 3mm wide saddle slot. I have done wider but not convinced on the intonation benefits. Marking out bridge pin holes (55mm string spacing). I need to make a template for this ... The holes follow the slant of the saddle slot. Next weekend I should be closing the box and getting the neck in rough shape. Cheers and hope you're all well ! Oli
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
Posts: 26,148
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jul 21, 2019 23:02:09 GMT
Good luck with the build, olsk. Look forward to watching it progress
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Post by Alan J on Jul 28, 2019 7:11:47 GMT
Good luck with the build, two things.
Go Bar Deck Might be easier than you think. All I did was drill four holes into my bench and put threaded nuts in from the reverse side of the desk. When I need a press I screw in four 80cm threaded steel bars. I then attached that to a roof with four holes spaced the same as the desk. Four star shaped knobs then control the max height of the roof. The beauty of this that it can be disassembled and tidied away in my workshop. It’s probably less fuss to build then trying to arrange clamps on a radius dish to be fair.
Second you said you kerfing was adding to the stiffness of the soundboard! As I understand it a guitar top is similar to a trampoline, which has a very strong steel frame, this allows the trampoline to oscillate without losing its energy to the frame.
The same is true for the edges of your soundboard, make them very stiff and you will lose less energy through the sides of the guitar. The top plate will then be free to vibrate in all its different modes without bleeding energy.
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olsk
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by olsk on Jul 28, 2019 19:17:55 GMT
Thanks guys. Good idea about using the workbench as a base for the go bar deck. I will have a go at that. I see what you mean about the stiffer kerfing stopping energy leaking into the sides. I was hoping that normal kerfing might get the bass frequencies going a bit more, as they would let the 'trampoline' vibrate more loosely, even if the trade off was some efficiency. We will see .. ! Closed the box this weekend and got the neck roughed out. I need to correct some flat spots on the sides before routing the binding. I also might take the top and back a bit thinner with a sander, just to loosen it up a bit more.
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olsk
Strummer
Posts: 20
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Post by olsk on Aug 18, 2019 15:52:31 GMT
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