davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 5, 2020 11:51:39 GMT
The black/white/black side purflings was glued onto the Bog Oak bindings and were then taped together with the black/white/ black top and back purflings: The bindings and purflings are then bent in the Fox-Bender: Then it’s out with “The Scutter” to cut the binding channels. The channels are first cut on the top the width of the linings and the depth of the linings plus side purflings. Some scrap pieces of the side purfling are stuck onto the top at the end graft with double-sided tape. The router rides on these to cut the rest of the binding channel. The channels are tidied up with a chisel and the side purflings can be mitred: Then the back binding channels were cut using the same process: Next the router is set to cut the top purfling channels and these are routed out. The top purflings and bindings were then glued in using fish glue:
|
|
colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
|
Post by colins on Nov 5, 2020 11:56:26 GMT
My favourite part of the job, the satisfaction of a perfect channel can't be beaten.
|
|
|
Post by robmc on Nov 5, 2020 22:39:32 GMT
I must admit I do struggle to grasp this part even with visuals, must be one of those things you have to do to fully understand, least that's what I tell myself. 'Fox-bender' and 'Scutters' are new ones on me too... Channels do look satisfyingly precise Dave, thanks!
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 7, 2020 10:15:58 GMT
I must admit I do struggle to grasp this part even with visuals, must be one of those things you have to do to fully understand, least that's what I tell myself. 'Fox-bender' and 'Scutters' are new ones on me too... Channels do look satisfyingly precise Dave, thanks! Rob - I suppose the Dark Arts have to be mysterious To get the Scutter reference you have to be a Red Dwarf fan and guitar maker Charles Fox came up with a jig for bending sides and generously shared his ideas with others. The back purflings and bindings were then glued in using fish glue: Here’s the box after the bindings have been scraped and sanded flush and the hole for the neck extension cut:
|
|
|
Post by robmc on Nov 7, 2020 12:34:01 GMT
Ahh, I see, a little service droid, I should have known! The oak bindings look great between the myrtle and spruce and the soundport seems a bit lunar to me, orbiting the soundhole...
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 12, 2020 11:19:28 GMT
The scarfe joint is cut in the Spanish Cedar neck blank and glued up with hot hide glue in this jig: The stacked heel is then glued up using hot hide glue: The next job is to route the truss rod slot: Next the slots for the two carbon fibre rods are routed: The truss rod is then glued in with a Spanish Cedar cap together with the carbon fibre rods:
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2020 12:16:19 GMT
It's amazing to see the process like this.
Can I ask: what does it mean to "voice" the top?
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 16, 2020 13:45:04 GMT
Can I ask: what does it mean to "voice" the top? It's the term I use to describe shaping and profiling the braces so that the top "responds" in a way I like over the whole of it's surface area when tapped. The Oregon Myrtle headstock veneer has the nut edge sanded at an angle to match the headstock to neck-shaft angle and then it’s glued on together with veneers of black/ white/ black using fish glue: The Oregon Myrtle veneer back-strap for the headstock was bent on the hot-pipe and glued on together with veneers of black/ white/ black using fish glue:
|
|
|
Post by robmc on Nov 16, 2020 14:50:15 GMT
Looking good, thanks Dave.
I also like how your answer to Dave's query is sufficient in detail to fully answer the question but leave those without the knowledge of the guitar wizard ever more mystified.
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 16, 2020 15:21:50 GMT
I also like how your answer to Dave's query is sufficient in detail to fully answer the question but leave those without the knowledge of the guitar wizard ever more mystified. You don't need to understand the "Dark Arts" just play and enjoy
|
|
colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
|
Post by colins on Nov 16, 2020 16:00:48 GMT
Rob, Some information is only available to members of G.O.L.F.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2020 17:15:48 GMT
I understand it. Thanks. Meanwhile, as you complete the headstock I'm getting quite excited to see/hear the finished article.
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 19, 2020 10:45:06 GMT
Next the peghead sides are shaped and the tuner holes drilled using this jig: Then the slots for the tuners are routed using the jig and a spiral downcut router bit: The top of the peghead is shaped and the nut slot is cut on the peghead leaving the side black/ white/ black purfling in place: The bottom of the peghead is then shaped, the slot sides sanded clean, and the string ramps initially shaped. Here it is with the tuners test fitted:
|
|
colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
|
Post by colins on Nov 19, 2020 11:53:26 GMT
Nice to see the slot-head jig back in use Dave, how did you find it worked?
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 19, 2020 14:35:07 GMT
Nice to see the slot-head jig back in use Dave, how did you find it worked? It's a brilliant piece of kit Colin - thanks. I don't get on with using the big plunge router like you though and have found a way to use the jig with my Makita laminate trimmer. I put the jig on in position and mark the outline of the slots on the headstock with a white pencil. I take the jig off and then using a 10mm Forstner bit drill a hole inside each slot in between the bottom two tuner holes. I then put the jig back on lining the position up with the slot outlines. Using a 1/4" spiral downcut bit in the Makita I can drop the bit depth for each cut by hand and locate the router bit in the hole in the slot before turning the Makita on and making the cut. Result - calm and nice clean slots. Simples
|
|