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Post by johnp on Apr 28, 2015 21:40:47 GMT
So I've sanded back the very tired looking top on my tacoma and the next step is to refinish. I'm quite happy using Nitro on my electric projects but I wondered if any of the experts here would recommend I use an oil finish instead? I'm not so fussed about getting a deep gloss finish but something a little more glossy than satin would be about right. and how do we feel about stain vs a straight lacquer finish? I've never covered cedar before so I'm guessing it won't be too anaemic without stain. Any thoughts would be much appreciated  |
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Apr 28, 2015 22:22:13 GMT
I'm no expert, but I have done one oil refinish before (on a spruce and walnut octave mandolin), having sanded progressively to 1200 grit, and found it then fairly simple to get a nice result with as much/little sheen as I wished. The unfinished spruce was very pale, but took on a nice deep golden hue after several coats very lightly sanded in between each one, so your cedar should look great without any stain I'm sure.
Hope you get some more experienced advice though...
Keith
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Post by johnp on Apr 29, 2015 17:20:19 GMT
Thanks Keith - I'm intrigued by the oil finishes and they look pretty easy - wipe on, steel wool, wipe some more on etc I do have a can of nitro sat here so I'm tempted to use it up as my next couple of projects (using gold leaf probably need a poly finish).
Another question occurs to me with the cedar top - grain filling - add enough layers until it's smooth or is there a transparent grain filler I should think about? I'd like to use the minimum thickness I can get away with.
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alig
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Post by alig on Apr 29, 2015 19:59:03 GMT
I've been tinkering around with Liberon Finishing Oil.
Rather nice so far. Haven't tried it on any instruments, mind. That's for when I get around to stripping it...
Nicest oil I've used - in comparison to Linseed, Teak and Danish.
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richm
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Post by richm on Apr 29, 2015 20:09:04 GMT
Hi Johnp,
Tru oil is a very good oil for guitars, it builds on the surface more than Danish or Linseed oil which soak into the finish. I have always heard that you don't want to let an oil soak into the soundboard too much. I usually use Nitro on my guitars but I am starting to use tru oil as it gives a nice satin sheen and can go on very thin. It won't be a very strong finish so play gentle!
Also there is no need to grain fill cedar or spruce as there aren't large pores like you get with rosewoods, mahoganies, walnut etc.
Rich
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Post by johnp on Apr 29, 2015 20:17:00 GMT
Thanks chaps - I'm leaning towards playing safe and using up the can of nitro I have already. All being well I'll make a start at the weekend. I'll post some update pics as I go.
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leoroberts
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Post by leoroberts on Apr 29, 2015 21:00:46 GMT
Pore filling .... as I recall davewhite uses a mixture of egg white and (chosen wood) sawdust. I know this involved a lot of sanding back and so forth. I can't remember if he does so with cedar tops... |
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colins
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Post by colins on May 16, 2015 11:45:24 GMT
Soft woods like cedar do not need any pore filling, I do give the bare wood a coat of egg white which is lightly sanded back once dry, as a size. By far the best oil finish for musical instruments is the Liberon Finishing Oil, it is used by a number of the high end builders such as Kevin Aram, who pioneered its use. It is the finish I use on all of my instruments now, unless the customer specifies French Polish. It is easily applied, though takes time to do properly, but doesn't have the three week wait to buff out to a sheen that nitro does, nor is it so horrendously toxic.
Just wipe on and sand back lightly with 400-500 grit every other coat until the depth of finish you want is achieved. Leave a couple of days, then I wet sand with micromesh up to 12000 grit. A quick buff with swirl remover and a nice sheen is produced.
Have a look at my build threads and you'll see the result.
Colin
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