Andy P
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My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Jun 2, 2015 21:27:27 GMT
Some time ago, in a moment of madness, I successfully bid for an Ozark Tenor Mandola on eBay. I say successfully but the purchase was hardly a success. It turned out to be a very poorly finished instrument with a horrid action. The Schatten pick-up attached to the bridge isn't too brilliant either: it's pretty tinny when amplified. So, I stuck the instrument under the bed and pushed it right to the middle (it's a king bed) and there it has remained, out of sight and largely out of mind. Attachment DeletedUntil today, when we thought it was about time to drag everything out from under and give it a bit of a hoovering. I took the wretched thing out of its gig-bag (great gig-bag  ) and I thought I'd give it another chance....or even a chance! The gap between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the 4th string is about 1.5mm so I'll start by reducing the nut height. Attachment DeletedCan someone please advise me of the best method of doing this? Thanks! Andy |
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 5,059
My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Jun 2, 2015 21:38:25 GMT
PS The tuner buttons are pretty stiff too. Any tips for freeing them up?
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Jun 2, 2015 22:39:19 GMT
... careful filing to deepen the nut slots should get you there - a little at a time, and check every few strokes, more often as you approach the goal. As there's such a long way to go, and as it looks like the base of the nut is square to its face, you could maybe remove it and sand 1mm or so off the base being careful to keep it square, then replace and deepen the nut slots as necessary.
Closed or open back tuners?
I'm impressed you hoover under the bed!
Keith
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jun 3, 2015 6:59:55 GMT
I'm impressed you have a bed...
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Post by vikingblues on Jun 3, 2015 7:10:17 GMT
Yes to what Keith said about the nut. I'm assuming your Ozark Tenor Mandola has a different design than mine regarding the nut - the soundhole and the tailpiece are certainly very different. On mine the plastic nut only serves to guide the string position width wise as the instrument has a zero fret. NOT easy to adjust if it's wrong!  The Ozark replaced a Hora Tenor Mandola I had got from a box shifter that I had to send back because the zero nut was way too high - the Ozark came from Omega who selected the one they had with the best zero fret / overall action. The difference between playing the two was massive. Both from the same factory. When I used to play electric guitar I bought a lot of low budget guitars and a set of nut files became an essential piece of gear - so many badly cut nuts that were way too high for easy playing and for correct intonation on the lower frets. It's well worth a bit of filing for the benefits it can give - though as Keith says it's a case of taking it gently and continually testing. Good luck!  Mark |
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 5,059
My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Jun 3, 2015 18:43:20 GMT
I'm impressed you have a bed... Under what else would I keep all my spare instruments?  |
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 5,059
My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":"8e2be1"}
Mini-Profile Name Color: 060607
Mini-Profile Text Color: 0b0b0c
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Post by Andy P on Jun 3, 2015 18:50:26 GMT
Thanks for the advice Keith and Mark, much appreciated.
Fortunately it doesn't have a zero fret. Unfortunately it may as well have cos I went in too hard with the sandpaper and the nut is now too short. I really am a complete disaster where DIY is concerned. I could win prizes.
There is a selection of new slotted nuts available on eBay. Any recommendations/warnings?
They're open back tuners Keith.
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Jun 3, 2015 19:43:14 GMT
Just remove and raise the nut with a sliver of wood veneer or something Andy, then back to the nut slots!
A teeny tiny bit of light oil on any potential friction inducing surfaces might help. Also unscrew and retighten the big bolt that goes through the middle of the cogwheel thingy in case too tight/jammed.
All a larf innit?!
Keith
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 5,059
My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":"8e2be1"}
Mini-Profile Name Color: 060607
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Post by Andy P on Jun 3, 2015 20:53:41 GMT
Oh I'm busting a rib.... Thanks Keith. I'll crack on. I'm sure there are many more ways of making a complete horlicks of a very simple task which I have yet to discover. Stand by for the next cry of anguish. |
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Post by andy3sheds on Jun 4, 2015 0:13:38 GMT
I take Keith's point about teeny tiny drops of oil but perhaps some dry graphite lubricant might fit the bill ( pencil "lead" is graphite) just rub a pencil around the softer the pencil the better, also worthwhile doing in nut slots
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Andy P
C.O.G.
Posts: 5,059
My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
Mini-Profile Background: {"image":"","color":"8e2be1"}
Mini-Profile Name Color: 060607
Mini-Profile Text Color: 0b0b0c
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Post by Andy P on Jun 4, 2015 17:08:38 GMT
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) and I thought I'd give it another chance....or even a chance! The gap between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the 4th string is about 1.5mm so I'll start by reducing the nut height.
The Ozark replaced a Hora Tenor Mandola I had got from a box shifter that I had to send back because the zero nut was way too high - the Ozark came from Omega who selected the one they had with the best zero fret / overall action. The difference between playing the two was massive. Both from the same factory.
