R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 3, 2015 22:48:23 GMT
Pat on the back well received, Alasdair. And I can't wait to see it finished, either - or rather hear it finished, actually. I'll be checking to see if these chaps have anything to say about backs that I can use but I'd better wait till after I've finished; I don't want to change horses in mid-stream yet again on this build!
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 4, 2015 17:31:15 GMT
Let's start with one to cheer the hearts of the many Scots amongst you: (I'm more Welsh via Birmingham myself but couldn't manage a dragon): Or maybe it'll take more than that! Here's the same thing with some guides temporarily stuck to the masking tape so that nothing starts to slide about once gluing has begun: I also used the Evo-Stik to cushion the truss-rod in place a while ago, which is why it's a bright new tube. I then got on and started attaching braces in a standard manner: This time I remembered to avoid fluster by using fish glue, which allows you so much time to adjust things. Unfortunately, I don't trust it enough to uncramp it before the statutory 12 hours are up so it means I can't touch the back plate for the rest of the day. I could also do with using the sanding trough but that is now occupied as base for the gluing, so I turn to something else on my list... Finished tidying up the bit I wasn't pleased with just inside the hole. You will remember it looked like this before: I only hope you can spot the difference! I like to seal the inside of the box since it discourages the wood from taking in too much moisture in humid conditions so I sealed the box-so-far with SPB (Special Pale Button - despite what I've written on the Fairy Liquid bottle!). In this picture I have "de-nibbed" it with 240 grit paper - though it's not really necessary to do this if you're not actually going to french polish it. And then I coated it in again with SPB: Looks quite nice now even if no one else will ever see it. You can also see in this photo that the new cutaway section and the heel-block itself stand proud of the arched plane that the back will make so I spend the rest of the afternoon taking them down to somewhere near their final level - though, without the sanding-trough I will have to wait till tomorrow to finalise it. Remind me to measure the heights of the soundboard braces before I close up the box, too - oh, and the label. And should I put "Rob fecit" in there somewhere? To be continued...
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 5, 2015 22:52:44 GMT
Perhaps someone out there with a classics background could tell me whether "Rob ille fecit" means something. "R the F" might guide you to what I'm looking for. Apart from investigating Latin, I don't seem to have got a lot done today though I did prepare various foodstuffs for my son's cooking lesson before school this morning, and I went for a run at 11.30 and I was called out to rescue the other son with a bike puncture on his way home from school at about 4.30 this afternoon. Perhaps that explains it. What I did do was to fine-sand (down to 240 grit) the inside of the back plate in preparation for polishing in the near future... but not before I had lined up the notches in the linings to take the ends of the various braces. Of course, you'll be observing, I ought to have done this before attaching the soundboard to the sides since I would have been able to access everything rather more easily. Still, I managed to line everything up and make some marks on the side which ought to be accurate enough: Someone recently was asking about "raising grain"; i.e. wetting wood to raise the grain which can then be lightly sanded before treating the wood with anything water-based. In the photo above there is a lovely example of a piece of walnut that's been wetted (during the bending process) and not yet sanded; "rough as a bear's bottom" to paraphrase what they used to say in workshop where I used to work. I then set about preparing slivers of Douglas Fir to reinforced the join down the middle of the back plate. This was very fiddly and time-consuming but I managed to end the day (after mending the puncture) by gluing these and the remaining brace on to the back plate: The bottle on the right, by the way, is not cold hide glue as it says on the label; it contains some of my fish glue, which is what I used to glue this little lot and which ought to be ready to face some activity by the morning. The side-to-side brace on the left is supposed to butt up against the end of the heel-block by the way; it'll be interesting to see how close it is to actually doing that when I finally put everything together. Before that I will have to carve the braces, trim their ends to fit into the linings and polish the inside of the back and sides. I wonder how much of that I'll get done tomorrow.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 6, 2015 21:27:51 GMT
A lack of Latin speakers then. Not surprising really. Well, today started well. I had left the centre reinforcements and final cross-brace gluing overnight and this morning I was pleased to see that no catastrophes had occurred and I had a fully braced back plate ready for carving and so on: Two hours later and I had carved them all roughly down to where I wanted them with a combination of chisels, plane and a little scraper: I took the photo and transferred it to the computer at lunchtime and then noticed something: I had removed a piece to fit in the reinforcement at the crossover point but I had removed it from the wrong brace! Oops! It's the sort of thing I do on a regular basis but normally to other people's furniture not to my own pride and joy.... Do I think the guitar will fold in half because of this mistake? No - maybe for some other reason but not because of that. So I stayed calm and decided to make a virtue out of a necessity so now I have decided to have a nice little cross of oak at the cross-over point rather than have a simple reinforcement. The more I think about it the more I think what a lovely feature this will be for anyone peering in through the hole! I've almost fooled myself. Anyway, the afternoon did not go well, either. I spent the whole of it trying to get the back to fit down flush around the ends of the braces where they are let into the linings. Drove me mad but reinforced the idea that I really should have done it before gluing on the soundboard so that I would have been able see what I was doing. Almost didn't write anything here tonight because I was so peeved but I did say this account would be warts and all so tonight's is a rather warty episode. Tomorrow will be all plain sailing.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 7, 2015 19:30:52 GMT
Plain sailing but, unfortunately, I didn't see the large fish lurking beneath the waves... To begin at the beginning. I made a fairly neat job of rectifying last night's problem. I think I actually used a bit of ash in the end rather than oak, but it's hard to tell the difference with small pieces like this: I then moved on to successfully getting the sides to lie flush on the top where I had let the ends of the back-braces into the linings. Whilst doing this, I happened to notice that the lining on the new section of rim - the cutaway - seemed to have moved slightly. I pushed it again and, sure enough, it slowly slid out of place and I was then able to peel it off. Strange, I thought. Warmed up some hot hide glue and re-attached it. I then decided to experiment with bichromate of potash on the inside of the box before polishing it. I carefully brushed it on and the walnut went a very nice dark... well, walnut colour. I later tried it on the braces etc. (Douglas Fir) but didn't like the effect so much - it was a bit too dark - and on the ash it went a peculiar greenish yellow. I coated these in with shellac when they were dry to get the true colour. Then I noticed that the ends of the newly attached side-to-side brace was lifting off at the ends. Upon investigation I found that this, too, peeled off when a little leverage was applied and it was still sticky; in other words the fish glue hadn't gone off (or "dried" in this case) even though it had been cramped up for well over 12 hours. The hot hide glue was still hot so I re-attached it. Then I noticed that the ends of the larger cross brace was lifting slightly at both ends and this was glued on two or three days ago. A little help and it, too, came gently unstuck. Then I noticed that the ends of the X-braces were lifting off: By this time I was starting to recognise a pattern. Not much left to come apart but I thought I'd better check the centre join: Now things were getting tricky because, although it's reasonably straightforward to glue braces back on, gluing two pieces of 2mm board edge to edge is not my idea of easy. By this stage the only bit still stuck was the cross-brace that I had earlier re-glued with hot hide glue so I thought I'd better make a fresh start and so removed it. Here is how things stand now: Not a pretty sight, I think you'll agree. Since there didn't seem to be any alcohol in the house, I decided there were two courses of action open to me: either sit and sob or write about it on Acoustic Soundboard. I feel much better already! So what could the explanation be? Well, it could be a bad batch of glue. Perhaps more likely is the weather; it has been very damp here for the last three or four days and my workshop is not hermetically sealed or controlled in terms of humidity. Moreover, since it has been unseasonably mild, I have not had much heating on in the workshop so I wonder if it's become too humid in there for fish glue to go off properly. After all, let's face it, all it does is dry and, if it's too humid, all it does is not dry. What worries me somewhat is the fact that the boards were glued together two or three weeks ago when it wasn't particularly humid. I was wondering if I'd sloshed the bichomate on over-liberally but, as you can see, the stain hasn't even gone into the joints at all. I did also gently apply warm/hot air to prepare for the hot hide glue when re-attaching the cross-brace, which is why the board started to curl slightly and reveal that it wasn't glued to the braces any more; I was being pretty careful with it, though. The upshot is that I think I'll give fish-glue a miss until the weather changes and even then I'll be a bit suspicious of it. The next challenge is to put this jigsaw back together using hot hide glue. Sorry not to be able to bring better news and I hope I haven't spoiled anyone's weekend.
|
|
|
Post by earwighoney on Nov 7, 2015 21:20:49 GMT
Great work on the thread Rob, been a delight to read it so far.
I had a frustrating day trying to fit some new tuners into my guitar which didn't go as well as it could have done, so I have nothing but admiration for the progress on your guitar even if there has been some unforeseen issues!
A fish finger sandwich and bottle of Hobgoblin (other ales and sandwiches are available) will serve you well.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 7, 2015 22:10:54 GMT
I was actually trying to avoid anything to do with fish this evening but thanks for your fellow feeling. I actually got hold of bottle of Old Hookey from somewhere in the Cotswolds which seemed to do the trick - and a curry! Good luck with your tuners.
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 7, 2015 22:36:11 GMT
Rob, Bummer First thing I would do is get hold of some cheap analogue hygrometers like these : Put them in your workspace so that you can measure the actual humidity. If you are glueing with fishglue at 80%+ humidity levels you will have problems. If you are glueing with hot hide glue at these levels you will have problems too - not of the glue joints unpeeling but of horrible wood movement and cracking when the plates are exposed to drier conditions. Humidity control for making the box is vital. Second thing is to do some test joints with scraps of wood using your fish glue under different humidity levels and clamping times to test the resulting glue joins. Just do simple flat wood joins using clamps so you know that the joint surfaces are prefect and the clamping pressure even. If at low humidity levels - 40-50% - and long enough clamping time the glue makes a good joint then it will be down to humidity control, proper jointing surface preparation and clamping time and technique and not the glue. If not it's the glue. My rule of thumb is that I use hot hide glue for all joints except where I need a long time to set up and execute the clamping of the joints. This for me tends to be for linings - although I could use hot hide glue and clamp bit by bit as I go - binding/purfling and tricky to clamp side to headblock joints. For all of the back joints you made - plate joining, braces, centre strip - I use hot hide glue. Secondly any work bracing the top and back plates I do is in a controlled humidity environment of ideally around 40% humidity for as long as it takes the glue to set. Braces are carved in this environment and the back and top joined to the rim as quickly as possible in this environment. I'm not a chemist but I'd have suspicions about the effect of bromide of potash on joints glued with fish glue - again some controlled test on scraps will give you some clue. Re joining the thinned back plate will be tricky. One way might be to glue some sacrificial wood strips to each plate along the join on the internal side so that you have a thicker piece of wood edge to re-shoot the joint and glue concentrating on making the walnut side not being out of line and needing thinning down to level. The sacrificial wood can then be planed/sanded off when the joint is firm, stable and secure and the internal re-enforcing strip can then be glued on.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 7, 2015 23:23:09 GMT
Thanks for taking time out for such a detailed reply; it's much appreciated. I was aware that all "proper" luthiers have humidity control but didn't really think I could justify the time and money. However, it would seem I don't have much choice. I'm sure it wasn't the chemical I used because I painted that on with a watercolour brush in a very controlled way to avoid wetting the fairly freshly glued joints. I'll have a detailed read of what you've suggested some time tomorrow and I'll let you know what I can come up with. Thanks again for stepping forward with a helping hand.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 8, 2015 10:39:32 GMT
I realise I actually own a means of measuring humidity; it's a so-called "weather station" that tells me inside and outside temperature and inside humidity. (I wasn't sure whether your "Terroristic Dragon", davewhite, was a hygrometer or a bomb timer, by the way). Anyway, the humidity in the workshop this morning (with bright skies and no rain) is 77% and I can well imagine it's been over 80 for much of the last week. I've already been googling dehumidifiers so looks like that's the way to go.
|
|
davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
|
Post by davewhite on Nov 8, 2015 12:10:38 GMT
Rob, Dehumidifiers will help but are pricey to buy and run. The first thing I'd do is get some heat in your workshop - I don't know how big a space it is but in my workshop (shed ) one or two small electric convector heaters do the trick. With these on I can usually get the humidity down to the 40-50% range for gluing jobs. The humidifier will perhaps get it lower to say 35-40% but I very rarely have to use it. The legends of the Martin workshop with the log burners at full pelt, the hide glue pots cooking and the workers in their underpants makes a lot of sense in this context
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 8, 2015 13:47:41 GMT
I'm not sure Martin would like you to give away his little secrets like that.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 9, 2015 20:14:55 GMT
I've ordered a dehumidifier because I suspect the workshop is a bit damp from beneath and I can't use heat alone to drive that off because I reckon it might be a bit damp in there even in the summer. It's actually a brick-built (single skin) "tandem garage" (if you know what that means) but it's only about 10 years old and, although I said it's not hermetically sealed, it's not very far off that since I put in new doors and ceiling and sealed off the up-and-over door when I first converted it to a workshop. I also have heating: I have a fairly large storage heater wired in and an oil-filled radiator to boost it if needed. So I took davewhite's advice on board and whacked on the heating overnight and during the day. It was actually too hot to work down there so I took it fairly easy today. At one point over the weekend the humidity went up to 80%, which confirmed what I feared, but by this afternoon this is how things stood: Of course, as soon as I put on some hot hide glue, the humidity did creep back up slightly but I'm getting a grip on things. In fact I've decided to use hot hide glue for as much as possible from now on (as - sort of - recommended by DaveWhite) and, since I wanted to start retrieving the situation today, I thought I'd see if I could get the centre joint sorted out. Before I did that, however, I took my opportunity to get a couple of photos of something you don't normally see; it's the box with the back miraculously removed: Anyway, I then fired up the heating and the glue-pot (but kept my trousers on) and tried a sort of a rubbed joint between the two walnut boards of the back; the sash-cramps aren't really doing anything much but the G-cramps and the lump of iron are an attempt to keep everything flush. (Note that I have also learnt my lesson so that everything is swathed in baking paper.) It'll be interesting to see how flat the resulting joint is in the knowledge that I can easily move the joint around or even take it apart again. Another weather report coming soon.
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 10, 2015 20:48:13 GMT
Hot and humid again in the workshop today. Can't seem to get the humidity down below 63% with heat - up to 25 degrees today - so I've obviously got a good source of water vapour in there somewhere. Checked some of the guttering in the dry today. I'll do the rest if it rains tomorrow to see where the water goes! Taking note of what davewhite pointed out the other day, I'm reticent about putting the box together while things are so humid (and potentially swollen) and likely to shrink (at varying rates) and split when things dry out. Patience is a virtue, they say, so now I'm waiting for the dehumidifier before I crack (bad word) on! I therefore started mending a drawer and a couple of damaged picture frames - but then I looked at my "what to do next" agenda and realised I could at least get on with shaping the neck. For anyone who may be interested, my method of working out a comfortable curve is revealed below: "Board" here means the neck width - i.e. without the fingerboard, which is 0.5mm wider than the (mahogany) neck itself. Here are a couple of photos of the neck being shaped since it's all I can offer today: Dinner time now!
|
|
R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
|
Post by R the F on Nov 11, 2015 8:33:59 GMT
Total tosh! "Board" means fingerboard. The point is that this is my way of "calculating" the (mahogany) neck profile (from the dimensions of the the total finished neck with 6mm fingerboard). You change the profile by simply varying the length of the diagonal (i.e. 0.68 could become 0.72, for example). Now whether any of this is a valid way of producing a profile is an entirely different matter! Besides which, this profile is only really a starting point for the fine tuning of the physical neck in your hand.
|
|