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Post by keithambridge on Aug 22, 2017 21:58:54 GMT
Hi folks, it's been a long time since I built a guitar, a few baglamas and a reso but not a serious guitar! I had a bit of a "down time" on what I realy like to play but now it's back and it's "Rembetika" (Greek underground!!!!! music from 1920's on)! Here in Greece it can be problematic performing with amplifiers in bars without specific licences. Acousticaly my bouzouki playing friend doesn't have a problem cutting through the noise in a busy bar but I do. I need volume, and clarity. I need a Gretsch Jim Dandy was the first thought (only €200)! Then I thought get an old European parlour guitar to rennovate. Then my brother said "build one, I have a lovely piece of European Spruce for the soundboard"! So, this is a 1940's Gregory Apartian guitar, (he was Greek but like many Greek luthiers, from Armenia).  apartian12 by keith ambridge, on Flickr A couple of months ago I made the mould, the sides and back will be mulberry (local to me) and I have at least 10 more sets!  image by keith ambridge, on Flickr After my summer trip to visit family in the UK I return to Greece with goodies from my brother and some work to do!  Apartian project by keith ambridge, on Flickr I wonder if we could call it an "Amboro"? |
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 24, 2017 12:49:50 GMT
So the spec for this instrument is;
12th fret to body parlour size guitar.
630mm scale.
European spruce soundboard, ladder braced true flat top. (the soundboard will be braced flat but in ultra low relative humidity allowing it to dome slightly in normal humidity)(I hope)!!
Mulberry back and sides.
Reverse kerf linings.
Mahogany neck.
Ebony fingerboard.
Ebony head veneer.
Slotted head with "Restoration" style machine heads.
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 24, 2017 13:04:37 GMT
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davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Aug 24, 2017 15:11:51 GMT
Keith, Looking forward to seeing this one progress - it will be a cool litte dude  Interesting using Mulberry for the back and sides - are you after a silky sound  |
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 24, 2017 15:54:02 GMT
Interesting using Mulberry for the back and sides - are you after a silky sound That took a while to click Dave. Duh!! One part of my spec I haven't decided on yet is neck reinforcement. I have a 2 way truss rod that I was intending to use but I also have 2 pieces of rectangular carbon fibre bar. The CF bar would cut down a lot on weight, I am trying to build as light as possible but will I regret the lack of neck adjustment. Or, will I not need it? I would be interested in opinions. |
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davewhite
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Luthier
Aemulor et ambitiosior
Posts: 3,548
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Post by davewhite on Aug 24, 2017 16:29:20 GMT
One part of my spec I haven't decided on yet is neck reinforcement. I have a 2 way truss rod that I was intending to use but I also have 2 pieces of rectangular carbon fibre bar. The CF bar would cut down a lot on weight, I am trying to build as light as possible but will I regret the lack of neck adjustment. Or, will I not need it? I would be interested in opinions. I'd go for adjustability every time with the 630mm scale length. If you want to reduce neck weight slice your ebony fretboard in two and laminate each piece with mahogany. You end up with two ebony faced, very resonant lighter fretboards that you can bind with ebony or other wood choices (cut some ebony strips from the fingerboard before you halve it to make the binding, the fingerboards are usually plenty wide enough). As long as you have 3mm thickness or so of ebony for the outer face you are fine. Great use of scare resource wood and it makes sense tonally - I do this a lot |
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Post by earthbalm on Aug 25, 2017 10:24:01 GMT
One part of my spec I haven't decided on yet is neck reinforcement. I have a 2 way truss rod that I was intending to use but I also have 2 pieces of rectangular carbon fibre bar. The CF bar would cut down a lot on weight, I am trying to build as light as possible but will I regret the lack of neck adjustment. Or, will I not need it? I would be interested in opinions. I'd go for adjustability every time with the 630mm scale length. If you want to reduce neck weight slice your ebony fretboard in two and laminate each piece with mahogany. You end up with two ebony faced, very resonant lighter fretboards that you can bind with ebony or other wood choices (cut some ebony strips from the fingerboard before you halve it to make the binding, the fingerboards are usually plenty wide enough). As long as you have 3mm thickness or so of ebony for the outer face you are fine. Great use of scare resource wood and it makes sense tonally - I do this a lot That's the kind of thinking that I like to see davewhite. |
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 25, 2017 12:03:01 GMT
Unfortunately the fingerboard is cut to shape, thicknessed and slotted so I'm committed to a solid ebony one this time.
Good tip for the future though Dave, thanks!
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 25, 2017 12:37:37 GMT
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Post by andyhowell on Aug 25, 2017 16:10:19 GMT
Fascinating project!
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135 
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Aug 26, 2017 17:40:27 GMT
Excellent pithy thread, Keith. I'm afraid I arrived on this forum after your previous builds and don't know you so, when I saw the name Ambridge, I assumed it was news from Simon Ambridge - a builder of bespoke classicals in a quiet corner of Dartington in Devon. It took me a while to sort out why he would want to cut through the noise in a busy Greek bar. Must be having a great holiday, I thought.
Since then I've read through your resonator thread so I'm catching on quick!
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 26, 2017 21:13:19 GMT
Excellent pithy thread, Keith. I'm afraid I arrived on this forum after your previous builds and don't know you so, when I saw the name Ambridge, I assumed it was news from Simon Ambridge - a builder of bespoke classicals in a quiet corner of Dartington in Devon. It took me a while to sort out why he would want to cut through the noise in a busy Greek bar. Must be having a great holiday, I thought. Since then I've read through your resonator thread so I'm catching on quick! I've just returned to Greece from Dartington, Simon is my brother and that is why I have lots of nice goodies to get this project going. It also means I have the expert eye watching over me (on Whatsapp)! |
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Aug 26, 2017 22:47:22 GMT
So I'm not as daft as I thought I was. Thanks for clearing that up, Keith.
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Post by keithambridge on Aug 27, 2017 12:15:18 GMT
My flat bracing was a disaster! I glued the braces at about 38% RH but it dropped to 30% sometime during the night so when I took the go bars off the sounboard was concave! Removing the two main braces with heat was a bad idea as it also softened the soundboard joint, the wood was shrinking due to the heat and hey presto the joint opened up!  Untitled by keith ambridge, on Flickr Not happy! |
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leoroberts
C.O.G. 
Posts: 26,145
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Aug 27, 2017 18:23:51 GMT
Hey! Hang on! Only R the F is allowed to cock things up  |
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Jo whoever he is.
