Instrument no 14 - my first guitar

Thank you, Dave!
Nice to hear that you have good experiences of Colin's method. I'll use it for the next build. I'm looking forward to see more of your builds. Everything I've seen so far have been very impressing.
/Lars

I'll do that! Thumbsup

Starting with the neck

The neck made of African Mahogany (Khaya) is a scarf joint neck. So I cut the neck blank in a 15º angle, shape the surfaces with a planer and re-glue them like this:



A stacked heel was added:



And slots for the truss rod and carbon fibre rods were routed with my laminate trimmer:



The truss rod was inserted and cf-rods were glued with epoxy and all three got wooden covers that were glued and then scraped flush with the neck:



The neck angle was transfered from the body like this (the top is resting on a thin piece of wood at the bridge position to give the correct height

):



Cutting the heel so that the neck got its right position in all dimension was frustrating and time consuming. I started with a neck designed for a zero fret but ended with a neck just long enough for a conventional nut! I've made myself lots of "notes to self" how I should and shouldn't do it the next time. But eventually I got it right:



And I couldn't resist to assemble the body with the neck-in-progress, just to get a glimpse of what the guitar will look like:



This will be all for now. I've made some more progress with the neck and fingerboard, but haven't uploaded those images yet. 

The last steps

Here are some glimpses of the last steps. 
This is my first glued on pin bridge - I've only made floating bridges for tail pieces before. When I decided to make the fret board of Laburnum, I also decided to make the bridge the same.
I made this jig from scrap pieces, to give me the correct angle for the saddle slot:



And here the slot is cut and holes for pins are drilled:



And no more pictures were taken before the bridge was shaped and sanded. And to tell you the truth. The first two photos was from my first attempt to make a bridge. The finished bridge is another one. Here it is loosely positioned on the top to admire the result:



The bridge is placed in the (hopefully) correct position and the two outermost holes are drilled through and temporarily fastened with bolts. Then the contour of the bridge is scribed with a sharp knife:



The oil finish is then carefully removed with chisel and sand paper:





And finally the bridge is glued to the top. The bolts and wing nuts also acts as clamps. The two centre clamps have a "caul" beneath while the outer ones are clamped against the x-braces:



Time to mount the tuners. These are open gear Gotoh SE-700. I love the vintage look of them:





Lastly the compensated saddle was shaped from a bone blank:



I've omitted many small steps, like reaming the bridge holes, making the nut, the cover for the truss rod, etc, etc. I've also omitted the finishing process, so I'll give you a short resume. Sides, back and neck was pore filled with the egg white method that I've learnt on this site. All wood was then sanded up to 2000 grit. First I applied two layers of schellack and then I added a couple of layers of Osmo hard wax oil. I think it's the same that is branded in the UK as PolyX. After hardening I've polished the finish with 000 steel wool and the finer degrees of Micromesh pads. The result is good on all except for the top which is descent but not more than that. The fretboard and bridges got a thin coat of Teak oil. 

Today is a dull, grey and rainy day, so the photos are rather shitty. But here are two shots on the guitar after it's strung up:





I'll take more and better pictures in a short while. It's been exciting to test play the guitar. I must say it's very promising. It seems to be particularly aimed for finger picking or gentle cross picking - but that is according to the plan.
The string height is too high at the moment, but I'll let the instrument live with the string tension for one or two weeks before I remove the saddle to adjust the height.