colins
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Post by colins on Feb 5, 2016 13:00:02 GMT
No, I found on the English guitar that it had no tendency to pull fibres on binding, I do always put a wash coat of shellac on though as a matter of course. Dave, the back and top braces aren't scalloped down as we do on a steel string, they just have a flat carved into the ends to the level of the lining, the lining is removed so that the braces butt up against the sides, and side supports are glued to the sides and the brace. This is the bracing on your Torres I fit the back in place and glue the side blocks on to the sides before gluing on the top as it makes access easier, the blocks for the top braces are glued on after the top is. Colin
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 5, 2016 14:41:00 GMT
Thanks Colin
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 7, 2016 15:29:20 GMT
The Coyote wood headstock veneers together with black/ pear/ black veneers are glued to the top and back of the headstock using fish glue: The front headstock veneer will have a central insert matching the centre of the rosette - two rope purflings with inner and outer black / pear / black purflings. The channel is routed with a 9mm bit and this jig: The headstock shape will have a central “point” so the inlay matches this. The channel is shaped, the outer purflings mitred and everything tested and then glued in:
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R the F
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Post by R the F on Feb 7, 2016 18:26:55 GMT
Very nice work indeed but why is it called Coyote wood? (I've just googled them and they're not nearly as pretty).
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 7, 2016 18:46:04 GMT
Very nice work indeed but why is it called Coyote wood? (I've just googled them and they're not nearly as pretty). Rob, No idea - maybe it howls It's ace wood though - I did a post about it here.
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R the F
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Post by R the F on Feb 7, 2016 19:16:38 GMT
An interesting read and sounds like marvellous stuff - though, if you google it, "Least favourite wood to work with" comes top of the list! Must be a different kind of coyote wood.
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Feb 7, 2016 19:42:11 GMT
... is it more likely to result in an instrument with wolf tones?
Keith
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 9, 2016 12:42:46 GMT
Rob - Well if people don't like working with it they can send it to me Keith - only if you pair it with a "full moonspruce" top Next the headstock is rough shaped and the positions for the pegs marked. These are drilled with a 9mm drill to be reamed later: Initial carving of the neck is now done as it will be easier than with the neck attached. Fine tuning will come when the fingerboard is attached: The Bog Oak fingerboard is marked and the fret slots cut in this jig: The fingerboard is then tapered and the neck checked to see that it has been left slightly oversize to fit the fretboard. The peg holes are then reamed using a banjo 5th tuner reamer – one of the few occasions where banjo making comes in handy elsewhere:
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colins
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Post by colins on Feb 9, 2016 13:51:26 GMT
Dave I like the blind ended inlay on the headstock, this is something I will have to copy!
Colin
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Martin
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Post by Martin on Feb 9, 2016 15:01:56 GMT
Looking great, Dave! I do like the headstock
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 9, 2016 15:31:25 GMT
Colin - thanks, feel free. Martin - thanks. Here’s the finished headstock. As “El Xiprer” has a Catalonian influence the shape is a tip of the cap to Antoni Gaudi: Now for an exciting bit – the neck and sides are joined with wedges glued using hot hide glue to the neck block but not to the sides in jonnymosco's magnificent Solera that has the neck back angle incorporated :
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 9, 2016 17:59:44 GMT
The sides are shaped to fit the curve of the back and the position of the back braces marked on the rim: The back Port Orford Cedar reverse kerfed linings are then glued on using fish glue:
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leoroberts
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Post by leoroberts on Feb 10, 2016 9:41:32 GMT
I'm having difficulty keeping up with this build thread! She's looking gorgeous, davewhite
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 10, 2016 10:29:42 GMT
I'm having difficulty keeping up with this build thread! She's looking gorgeous, davewhiteA bit like Benteke's having difficulty hitting a barn door with a banjo - maybe I should make him one to practice with The sides are shaped to fit the curve of the top and the position of the top braces marked on the rim. The Port Orford Cedar reverse kerfed linings are then glued on using fish glue:
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R the F
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My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Feb 11, 2016 9:53:15 GMT
The sides of the “headblock” section of the neck are sloped to make the section that fits onto the back narrower. Sorry to be a week behind with my question (but it's a stage I'm just reaching with my build): Is there a reason for narrowing the block like this or is it just the way it's normally done on this type of guitar?
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