davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 2, 2018 10:36:11 GMT
The sides are a little more fragile than I expected and whilst shaping the Manzer-style wedge the side treble side suffered a “crush” fracture near to the end graft. This was glued back together with a patch on the inside but was not an invisible mend - cross grain cracks in such light coloured wood are almost impossible to fix invisibly. I therefore decided to do a Cuban Mahogany inlay to cover the join. First job is to make a template and attach it to the side, then using a following guide the inlay “pocket” is routed out: For symmetry a matching inlay will be done on the bass side so the template is moved across and the pocket routed out: Cuban Mahogany discs are cut using the circle cutting jig to fit in the pockets and are glued in using fish glue then taped and clamped in place: Here’s the result after levelling the inlays flush with the sides:
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Feb 2, 2018 10:41:23 GMT
Shame about the damage, but great recovery - love it - very Dave White! Keith
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Post by robmc on Feb 3, 2018 0:17:38 GMT
Creative problem solving Dave!
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leoroberts
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Post by leoroberts on Feb 3, 2018 10:08:29 GMT
An elegant solution indeed! I love the creativity of the luthiers on this forum...nothing seems to faze ‘em. I imagine some deliberately make mistakes just to see how they can overcome them
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 3, 2018 10:29:52 GMT
Thanks Keith and Rob. An elegant solution indeed! I love the creativity of the luthiers on this forum...nothing seems to faze ‘em. I imagine some deliberately make mistakes just to see how they can overcome them Leo - as they say "It's not the sofas you make but the way you recover them that matters" . . . or something like that
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 3, 2018 11:53:14 GMT
The Mahogany side braces are notched into the linings and glued in using hot hide glue: An extra mahogany block is glued in next to the neck block on the bass side – this is the first step in a "cunning plan" to address the neck/body balance when playing with a strap : The 6mm carbon fibre rod flying-buttress braces are then glued in: Here's the completed rim-set:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 4, 2018 14:08:34 GMT
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 5, 2018 10:18:31 GMT
The European spruce top plates are initially thicknessed, jointed and glued using hot hide glue and the tent method: The soundhole is going to be “bound” with mahogany similar to the Rpad Trip guitar. Firstly a Cuban Mahogany soundhole patch is cut to shape and glued on using hot hide glue and a caul: The rosette ring is cut from a piece of Cuban Mahogany using the circle cutting jig: Then a rosette channel is cut in the top down to the soundhole patch: The Cuban Mahogany rosette ring and black/ white/ black outer purfling are test fitted and glued in using white pva glue: Next a step is routed in the inner edge of the rosette and then the soundhole is routed out. This gives the look of a totally bound soundhole and the fingerboard edge will finish at the beginning of the step to give a complete Cuban Mahogany ring around the inner edge of the soundhole:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 6, 2018 8:42:03 GMT
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leoroberts
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Feb 6, 2018 9:19:01 GMT
An inspired choice of quote, there, davewhite
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 7, 2018 9:59:58 GMT
Thanks Leo. The Cuban Mahogany X brace cap is glued on using hot hide glue: The back braces are then carved and the back is “voiced” – here’s the result: The linings are notched to accept the brace ends and the back is glued to the rim-set using fish glue: The Cuban Mahogany back strips are glued in using hot hide glue: The linings are notched to accept the brace ends and the top is glued to the rim-set using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 22, 2018 15:25:35 GMT
The Cuban Mahogany bindings have had their b/w/b side purflings glued. They are then taped together with the top/back purflings: They are then bent to shape in the Fox-style bender with this result: Next the top binding channels are cut using the binding jig to the depth of the bindings plus side purflings. The channels are stopped just short of the end-graft. Purfling pieces are stuck using double-sided tape over the end-graft. The binding channel is then cut over the end graft with the jig riding on these so that the depth cut is just that of the binding. The end graft side purflings can then be mitred using a chisel: Then the back binding channels were cut using the same process: Next the router is set to cut the top purfling channels and these are routed out: The top binding, side and top purflings are then glued in using fish glue: The back purfling channels are routed out: The back purflings are then glued in using fish glue: Finally the back bindings are glued in using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Feb 23, 2018 12:01:56 GMT
When the glue is dry the bindings and purflings are scraped and sanded flush. The side soundport is then cut: Here’s the finished box:
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Post by Onechordtrick on Feb 23, 2018 13:06:30 GMT
I notice that you've added a soundport. What's the the rationale behind soundports? Not just on this instrument but generally.
Thanks
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Feb 23, 2018 13:57:11 GMT
I notice that you've added a soundport. What's the the rationale behind soundports? Not just on this instrument but generally. Thanks A properly sized soundport lets the player hear more (in terms of volume, tonal range and complexity)of the instruments sound with no detriment to the forward projected sound. Something of a win/win (or to be pedantic, a win/not lose). Once you've played a soundport equipped instrument with the port plugged, and then uncovered as you play the penny will drop and a big smile will come upon your face. In acoustic group situations this can be v useful and it certainly enhances pleasure when playing solo. (ooer!) Keith
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