davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 7, 2015 16:34:59 GMT
The back purfling channels are routed: The back bindings and purflings are then glued on using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 12, 2015 11:59:28 GMT
Here’s the box after scraping the bindings flush. The opening for the fingerboard extension on the neck has also been cut in the top: The truss rod channel is routed in the neck shaft: Then the channels for the twin carbon fibre bars are routed: The two way truss rod is glued in with a American Black Walnut cap together with the carbon fibre bars: The Macassar Ebony headstock veneer is glued onto the top of the headstock using fish glue: The rear Macassar Ebony headstock veneer is bent to match the volute and is glued onto the rear of the headstock using fish glue:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 13, 2015 12:34:15 GMT
The neck is cut to fit the fingerboard extension hole in the top and the threaded inserts position marked and drilled. The thread inserts are then fitted. The neck is then bolted on and checked for correct alignment:
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colins
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Post by colins on Sept 13, 2015 14:31:13 GMT
Moving ahead Dave. Is that a macassar FB?
Oh, and interesting take on the partial capo.
Colin
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 13, 2015 14:39:43 GMT
Colin - yes the fb is Macassar Ebony as will be the bridge - keeps it down to a few woods: Lutz, American Black Walnut and Macassar Ebony. Oh, and interesting take on the partial capo.
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 16, 2015 12:42:59 GMT
The tuner holes are drilled in the headstock using a 10mm drill: The headstock is cut to shape: Here are the Gotoh tuners with ebony buttons test fitted:
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R the F
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Post by R the F on Sept 18, 2015 21:50:09 GMT
I'm trying to work out your (and my own) rule of thumb for when to use hot hide glue and when to use fish glue. Do you trust HHG for parts which are likely to be under some stress and fish glue more to simply hold things in position? Or is it partly to do with having more "open" time (and less heating up) with fish glue than you have with HHT? I'm still a bit wary of fish glue and wonder how far you trust it
Thanks for your trouble,
Rob
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colins
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Post by colins on Sept 18, 2015 22:19:22 GMT
Rob, Dave will give his take on this, but as you probably know I also use HHG and fish glue on my guitars. For me it is purely an open time thing, I use HHG for joining plates, braces and bridge and fish glue for the rest. To me they are equal in strength, but HHG is more easily reversible if repairs are ever needed.
Colin
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R the F
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My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Sept 18, 2015 22:26:34 GMT
Thanks, Colin. I see what you mean about reversibility. This afternoon I was attaching braces to a soundboard with hot hide glue and I think I tried to do too many in one go so I might need some of that reversibility tomorrow! I was very tempted to use fish glue for that since placement had to be so precise and I could have done with a bit more time. Swings and roundabouts, I suppose. Nice to know they are both load-bearing, though.
Thanks, Rob
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Sept 20, 2015 13:03:12 GMT
Rob - pretty much what Colin said. The Macassar Ebony fretboard is marked and the fret slots cut in this jig: The fingerboard end is routed to match the soundhole curve: The fingerboard is then tapered and a piece of the Macassar Ebony binding with b/w/b purfling is bent on the hot pipe to follow the soundhole curve and then glued to the fretboard using hot hide glue: The Macassar Ebony bindings and side purflings are then glued on using fish glue: The white 2mm side dot markers are then installed on the fingerboard: The fingerboard is then glued to the neck using fish glue:
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colins
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Post by colins on Sept 20, 2015 13:42:42 GMT
I love it, because you rout off the end of the FB you have a perfect caul to use for gluing on the end binding. People, Dave is officially a genius.
Colin
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Oct 6, 2015 17:03:13 GMT
The neck is then carved: The fingerboard is radiused: Then the gold EVO frets are pressed in: Here’s the fretted neck on the body: Time to check the fit in its case . . . snug!
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Post by harleedea on Oct 6, 2015 21:04:41 GMT
Looking beautiful Dave! I love the natural finish, but I imagine you're going to gloss that bad boy up
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Oct 10, 2015 14:50:23 GMT
Two 6mm holes are drilled in the neck heel and carbon fibre rods glued into the holes using fish glue: The Macassar Ebony heel cap with b/w/b veneers is then glued on using hot hide glue: When the glue is dry the heel cap is scraped and sanded flush: Thanks Harlee. The Macassar Ebony bridge blank has the underside matched to the top curvature: The bridge slots are then routed using this jig: The rear of the bridge is ramped and the bridge-pin holes drilled: The bridge-pin holes are then counter-sunk: The rest of the bridge is shaped and the two saddles fitted: The bridge carefully positioned on the top. The outer two bridge-pin holes are drilled through. Here’s how it looks:
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davewhite
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Post by davewhite on Oct 12, 2015 12:55:36 GMT
Then it’s into the Troji to scrape and sand down the back and sides ready for pore filling: The back and sides are then pore filled using egg white – 240 grit sandpaper is dipped into the egg white and sanded on the back and sides to make wood slurry that is pushed into the pores. The egg white acts as a binding agent and the pores are effectively filled by the same wood dust:
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