colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
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Post by colins on Jul 27, 2016 10:47:20 GMT
Time to combine the body and neck into one glorious whole!
The mortice is cut in the body using a jig and guide bush fitted to the small router.
The neck is bolted onto the body and the angle and centre line checked. I like 2-3mm gap at the bridge position off of the neck surface and 9mm
with the unfretted fingerboard.
Spot on, this boy really is a genius!
The fingerboard is put in place and the registration brads tapped in.
Then the FB is glued on with fish glue.
The neck is given its final shaping and fitted back to the body.
Frets are then installed.
Colin
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 27, 2016 10:52:00 GMT
A lot of sanding and pore filling later, actually the pores on the GA are almost non-existant!
a couple of wash coats of shellac and the first coat of the Liberon Finishing Oil is wiped on.
Colin
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francis
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My main instrument is: Whatever I'm building...
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Post by francis on Jul 27, 2016 11:47:32 GMT
Great thread and superb results  |
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Andy P
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My main instrument is: Furch Vintage, Taylor 312ce, Deering 5string banjo
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Post by Andy P on Jul 27, 2016 14:04:32 GMT
It's looking marvellous! What's the estimated completion date, aka the competition deadline colins ? If there's time enough for me to put something together and enter the comp, in order to remain as subjective as possible I'll not listen to anyone else's effort till I'm done. |
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 27, 2016 14:31:54 GMT
I aim to have this finished by the end of August at the latest, so entries by then, but keep an eye on this thread.
Colin
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R the F
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 1,135
My main instrument is: bandsaw
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Post by R the F on Jul 27, 2016 19:02:10 GMT
Gorgeous fingerboard - really completes a great-looking instrument, though I'm not sure I'd find a use for the fret-markers up towards the soundhole!
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
Posts: 2,397
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Post by colins on Jul 27, 2016 19:07:30 GMT
Gorgeous fingerboard - really completes a great-looking instrument, though I'm not sure I'd find a use for the fret-markers up towards the soundhole! Don't worry, for most players the frets past the seventh are for decoration only.
Colin
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
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My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jul 28, 2016 0:06:36 GMT
anything past the third as far as I'm concerned....
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Jul 28, 2016 0:11:51 GMT
anything past the third as far as I'm concerned.... ...so you don't use a capo then...?  Keith |
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leoroberts
C.O.G.
Posts: 26,146
My main instrument is: probably needing new strings
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Post by leoroberts on Jul 28, 2016 7:32:03 GMT
a what?
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francis
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Post by francis on Jul 28, 2016 8:42:35 GMT
I think it lets you use the next 3 frets....  |
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Martin
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Post by Martin on Jul 28, 2016 12:23:18 GMT
The guitar looks utterly fantastic! I really should get my finger out, if there's even a remote chance of possibly nearly being in the running for this one  |
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Post by christoph on Aug 1, 2016 14:34:06 GMT
Building the prize guitar for this years arrangement competition is underway, as you'll know this will be a OOO 12 fret guitar made from White Spruce and Gonzalo Alves with a laminated curly sycamore neck.
Top : White Spruce B&S: Gonzalo Alves Neck: Curly sycamore with ebony and pear laminates FB and Bridge: Ziricote: Binding: Curly Sycamore.
This is the model guitar, this one is Lutz Spruce/Black Limba/Cherry
The body is 15" lower bout and is my FE19 Torres classical body that I also used on the OO-13 that was last years draw prize, but with a half inch added all round, it makes a very sweet fingerstyle guitar, especially suited to standard tuning, but will also work altered.
The wood.
First job is to make the laminated linings, they are four layer laminates, with three of spruce and a cap of mahogany, each layer is thinned to 1.25mm and then they are glued and layered so that the inside one is mahogany and cold glued in a two part form. They then become extremely rigid and form a very stiff lining for the sides. I believe in architecture they call these engineered joists.
Next a lot of sanding, the sides have to be thinned to just over 2mm in preparation for bending, the top and back are taken down to 3.5mm thick ready to joint and glue up, they'll be further thinned after joining, and the installation of the rosette.
I'm building this guitar in tandem with a nylon string guitar, based on my Torres classical with a few twists, for James Daubney, so I'll also start another thread for that.
Colin What kind of price£ would the acoustic guitar cost if i wanted one made by you please, with an ohm symbol on the body or as part of the sound hole,? |
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ocarolan
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Post by ocarolan on Aug 1, 2016 15:57:04 GMT
.................What kind of price£ would the acoustic guitar cost if i wanted one made by you please, with an ohm symbol on the body or as part of the sound hole,? - I think it best to start that kind of conversation by sending colins a Personal Message - thanks! Keith |
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colins
Luthier / Guitar Maker
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Post by colins on Aug 18, 2016 11:28:53 GMT
Well the finish is finished and wet sanded with micromesh to 12000, then given a light polish with swirl remover, my aim is not a mirror like gloss, but more a polished sheen, like 300 year old furniture. The Grover tuners have also been installed.
The next job is to make the bridge, this is ziricote to match the fingerboard.
The saddle slot is cut on the table router and the string holes drilled to 4mm on the drill press.
Before shaping the base of the bridge is sanded to the 25' radius on a radiused dome.
The rough belly bridge shape is cut on the bandsaw, then the bridge is rasped to rough shape and sanded on the spindle sander.
final fitting of the underside of the bridge to the top will be done on the top just prior to gluing.
In its Hiscox Pro II case.
Anyone who hasn't yet entered and would like the chance to own this guitar had better get a shift on!
Colin
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Jo whoever he is.
